Flush versus drain steering rack
05-16-2015, 12:58 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Flush versus drain steering rack
Hey, has anyone attempted to flush their steering fluid versus draining it? Watched a video of a guy flushing his Toyota car. Seems easier. Thoughts ?
05-16-2015, 04:51 PM
#2
Team Owner
its pretty easy to swap out the fluid you will need 1 qt dextron3 and 2 sealing washers,
jack up the car support on jack stands,
remove one of the banjo bolts from the rack, the forward one is good,
then turn the wheels back and forth a few times the oil will drain out ,
NOTE you may have to remove the sway bar from its mounts to get to the banjo bolt
refit the banjo with new sealing rings.
then refill , and start the engine and turn lock to lock a few times ,
the fluid will foam so it has to sit for a few mins to let the entrained air dissipate.
NOTE when you get to the full lock bounce off the stop,
so your not holding pressure at full lock as this can damage the seals
jack up the car support on jack stands,
remove one of the banjo bolts from the rack, the forward one is good,
then turn the wheels back and forth a few times the oil will drain out ,
NOTE you may have to remove the sway bar from its mounts to get to the banjo bolt
refit the banjo with new sealing rings.
then refill , and start the engine and turn lock to lock a few times ,
the fluid will foam so it has to sit for a few mins to let the entrained air dissipate.
NOTE when you get to the full lock bounce off the stop,
so your not holding pressure at full lock as this can damage the seals
05-17-2015, 10:43 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Another method is to siphon the reservoir dry ( wife's turkey baster Porsche approved), refill with Dex III & either go for a drive - or jack front wheels up & gently cycle the steering.
Repeat 5X ( a day between is OK), and the fluid is effectively replaced - saves cracking the banjo bolts open.
Repeat 5X ( a day between is OK), and the fluid is effectively replaced - saves cracking the banjo bolts open.
05-17-2015, 11:05 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
Filter
when you do this change out the PS fluid reservoir as well.
It has a build in filter on the bottom that most people are not aware of and price wise (around $30) are well worth it to extend the life cycle of the rack
It has a build in filter on the bottom that most people are not aware of and price wise (around $30) are well worth it to extend the life cycle of the rack
05-17-2015, 09:12 PM
#7
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
For me the return line to the reservoir comes off, a section of h-d vinyl hose extends it to a bucket under the car. Pour fluid into reservoir (gallon of cheap from WalMart) with engine idling as assistant cycles the rack stop to stop a few times. Then connect new filter, drain the system, new good fluid.
The old fluid doesn't break down like engine oil, but it does get contaminated. Purpose of the flush is to get any dirt and pump vane debris out before it damages the rack seals and bushings. The more and faster the fluid flushes through, the better chance you have of making a difference. Stan's method pulling the return line at the rack is probably at least as effective if you can contain the mess underneath.
The old fluid doesn't break down like engine oil, but it does get contaminated. Purpose of the flush is to get any dirt and pump vane debris out before it damages the rack seals and bushings. The more and faster the fluid flushes through, the better chance you have of making a difference. Stan's method pulling the return line at the rack is probably at least as effective if you can contain the mess underneath.