getting tired... 87 S4 no start - no cranking
05-13-2015, 12:48 PM
#16
Race Car
I would swap out the starter relay before messing with the 14 pin connector.
IDK how many of these S3/S4 series I have got running with the same issue.
FWIW it seems that cars that have seen long periods of cranking,
will run the starter relay hot ,
and it will eventually melt some part inside the relay.
SO if you have had some of these events recently then the starter relay is prime.
IDK how many of these S3/S4 series I have got running with the same issue.
FWIW it seems that cars that have seen long periods of cranking,
will run the starter relay hot ,
and it will eventually melt some part inside the relay.
SO if you have had some of these events recently then the starter relay is prime.
05-13-2015, 07:05 PM
#17
Drifting
Stan's expanded explanation of how the relay can fail is convincing. I checked the fuse chart from 928 Specialists...the part number suggests it's a #53. Correct? Would be nice if it is.
05-13-2015, 07:58 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Great news. It was a 53 and I've got a ton of spares.
Swapped it in and she fired right up.
Then caught fire. Badly.
I must have ****ed something up when I fixed the most expensive vacuum leak ever last weekend. I now have several more.
Swapped it in and she fired right up.
Then caught fire. Badly.
I must have ****ed something up when I fixed the most expensive vacuum leak ever last weekend. I now have several more.
Last edited by fraggle; 05-13-2015 at 11:14 PM.
05-13-2015, 09:07 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Wow, sorry to see this. What is the situation with your fuel lines?
05-13-2015, 11:01 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Fuel lines are all Less than 5 years old. I'm guessing I buggered up an injector oring or something when I put the intake and fuel rails back on last weekend. The vac line I fixed is turning quite expensive. There's a lot of melted plastic on the drivers side, I'm not sure of the extent of damage at this point. I know I'm going to need at least an intake tube, a fender liner, and a bunch more vacuum line. Ignition wires look intact. The dry chem vacuums up quick but it is everywhere. My entire garage is dusted and the interior of the car is going to need a weekends worth of work. I used both my dry chem and my halon to put it out. Car ran for less than 30 sec before it went up with a bang, not sure exactly what failed.
05-13-2015, 11:36 PM
#23
Team Owner
Oh no so sorry to see this, I hope it can be saved.
FWIW if you were messing with the fuel rails,
then the chances are good that one of the injectors clips wasnt locked in place,
the injector moved out of the fuel rail and then sprayed fuel.
NOTE old ignition wires are the source of ignition,
I would replace them with the BERU set thats plug and play.
Warning NOTE, resist the urge to flush the top of the engine ,
do not flush the top of the engine with water,
as you will put water down the clutch release arm hole ,
and the water will find its way into the throw out bearing thus destroying it.
FWIW if you were messing with the fuel rails,
then the chances are good that one of the injectors clips wasnt locked in place,
the injector moved out of the fuel rail and then sprayed fuel.
NOTE old ignition wires are the source of ignition,
I would replace them with the BERU set thats plug and play.
Warning NOTE, resist the urge to flush the top of the engine ,
do not flush the top of the engine with water,
as you will put water down the clutch release arm hole ,
and the water will find its way into the throw out bearing thus destroying it.
05-14-2015, 09:30 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
Perhaps some quick troubleshooting...
Is there a clack from the starter, but no starter? If so, the problem is in the starter solenoid or the starter or the ground connection, or the battery-to-starter power connections or the battery.
If there is no clack from the starter, open the Central electric panel. Find XIV, the starter relay. Put a finger on it and turn the key to start position. Any click from the relay? If not, remove the relay and identify each of the terminals in the socket.
- Check Terminal 86 for battery voltage when the key is in the start position. No voltage means a problem with the ignition switch or its power supply.
- Check terminal 85 for ground. On your five speed, no ground means a problem with the connectors between Terminal 85 and MP VI. On an automatic, the problem would be a problem with the connectors in the forward corner of the spare tire well or the shift switch on the transmission.
If none of this is a problem, swap the relay with the horn relay and try again.
If there is a click from the start relay, go to the yellow wire in the corner of the 14-pin connector next to the jump start terminal. If you have a helper, check for battery voltage on the yellow wire when the key is in the start position. If you have no helper, make certain that the transmission is in neutral. Check it again. Jump power from the jump start terminal to the yellow wire. No "clack!" from the starter means a problem with the connection, the yellow wire, or the starter solenoid.
Is there a clack from the starter, but no starter? If so, the problem is in the starter solenoid or the starter or the ground connection, or the battery-to-starter power connections or the battery.
If there is no clack from the starter, open the Central electric panel. Find XIV, the starter relay. Put a finger on it and turn the key to start position. Any click from the relay? If not, remove the relay and identify each of the terminals in the socket.
- Check Terminal 86 for battery voltage when the key is in the start position. No voltage means a problem with the ignition switch or its power supply.
- Check terminal 85 for ground. On your five speed, no ground means a problem with the connectors between Terminal 85 and MP VI. On an automatic, the problem would be a problem with the connectors in the forward corner of the spare tire well or the shift switch on the transmission.
If none of this is a problem, swap the relay with the horn relay and try again.
If there is a click from the start relay, go to the yellow wire in the corner of the 14-pin connector next to the jump start terminal. If you have a helper, check for battery voltage on the yellow wire when the key is in the start position. If you have no helper, make certain that the transmission is in neutral. Check it again. Jump power from the jump start terminal to the yellow wire. No "clack!" from the starter means a problem with the connection, the yellow wire, or the starter solenoid.
05-14-2015, 11:30 AM
#27
Race Car
That car is testing your resolve.
The red ones are always like that.
The mirrors still look good...and the backstory counts, so I hope the recouperation is quick!
The red ones are always like that.
The mirrors still look good...and the backstory counts, so I hope the recouperation is quick!
05-14-2015, 01:21 PM
#28
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Man that is some bad luck here. I am glad you were not hurt. I hope that the damage is minimal. Please also make sure the fire did not reach any power steering lines or the ABS wiring in the fender.
05-14-2015, 07:27 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
I don't think my troubleshooting suggestion is going to be of much help...
Obviously, I missed a post or two - my condolences on your more serious problem.
Obviously, I missed a post or two - my condolences on your more serious problem.