bureau13

I thought about that when I was working on loosening the fuel cooler nuts, actually. I think from my experience with the expansion valve, I should have loosened that nut first (loosening the bracket holding the cooler didn't allow enough free rotation for me) and then the alignment issues go away.

I had a terrible time getting my hood back on and aligned properly after replacing the underhood pad...in fact I still don't think I got it quite right.

bureau13

I ordered a new valve from Roger, btw. Now is not the time to get lazy on something that cheap. I don't have the compressor re-installed anyway, so it's not like this is the one thing holding me up....

dr bob

Jeff -- Future, and for those playing along at home:

On removing the hood -- Unbolt the hinges from the car, and take them off with the hood. That way alignment is preserved. For folks who have trouble realigning the hood, make sure your hinges are clean and lubricated before you even start. Even a small amount of friction/binding in the hinges will make proper hood alignment a crapshoot. I use a spray lithium/Teflon grease, with backing paper towel to collect overspray and dribbles. WD-40 in as a cleaner is OK, lubricates temporarily if that's all you have handy.

I --hate-- making "alignment marks" on painted surfaces, as they are permanent damage. Much better to use painter's tape, so your guides can be removed later.

When installing and aligning the hood, protect the hood and fender edges with painter's tape, and initially use service covers or blankets on the fenders, windshield and cowl panel. The hood shocks are not connected until the hood is bolted in.

bureau13

Well...dammit. I haven't replaced the drier yet, because I wanted to test the integrity of everything so far first...so I connected up the manifold gauges and vacuum pump, pulled a vacuum for 30 minutes, with the intention of then shutting off the pump and leaving the gauges hooked up for a while to see how well it held the vacuum. It turns out I needed about 30 seconds to get an answer to that

I have no way to pressurize the system with nitrogen, and I don't want to put R12 in there when I know for a fact it will leak out. But how do you check for a leak when you're pulling a vacuum? The soapy water trick would only work with the system at positive pressure, right?

SeanR

Best just to dig in and change every seal then test. Until you do you are only guessing.

Do you have a welding supply shop close? They will have the nitrogen and it's possible they will rent you the tank/regulator for a time.

bureau13

I never thought to look for a welding shop, so I don't know, but I would imagine that I do. That's a good idea.

The sad thing is, I'm sure the leak is in something I've already changed. The system still had pressure when I took out the compressor...not full pressure, but some, and it has been sitting there unused (the AC system anyway) for quite a while. I wonder if I tore an o-ring or something...

bureau13

Can you get the air pump out of these cars with the compressor still in place? If I can do that, I can check those connections without unbolting the compressor. I had a ridiculously hard time getting those damn compressor bolts in, I do not want to take them back out if I can help it.

SeanR

It sure does make it easier to get to those connections with the airpump out of the way. Do you plan on an X-pipe in your future? If so, pull that pump. It's easier with the comp out but you can remove the air pump with it all there, it's just a pain.

Welding supply is where I get all my gas (methane is self producing) and equipment.

Ducman82

as some one who is doing this as we speak...

just replace the seals. the compressor is out, so thats 6 seals, (4 on the compressor under the adapters, and 2 on the hoses.

do the other line end seals, do the 2 on the condenser/drier

expansion valve is the hardest and FINALLY got mine done.

SeanR

It's a bitch isn't it? How many hours did it take you? I got to the point that if I can't make one of the connections budge I'll just groove in to it until I can shoot some Kroil in to it and release the pressure.




I've had some where I had to cut the entire damn thing off.

bureau13

Here's the thing though...it's a brand new (reman, actually) compressor, with all new seals. I just put a new expansion valve in, also all new seals...in fact I did that twice (aarrgghh). I put new seals in various places...the old ones were holding pressure (at least somewhat) but were compressed...but something that I've changed must be the culprit here. So I do go back and redo everything? I'm not really too excited about that, let me tell you.

Hey, maybe a stupid question, but can you pressurize with CO2? I have CO2 tanks for a variety of things....

Ducman82

mine was a rounded fitting.... but after prob half a day of cutting wrenches and trying to find a way to get it off, i removed the hood and "tapped" a wrench on it and amazingly it budged. about 4 of the 6 side of that nut were "ok" so i was able to flip the wrench and get it off. I almost pulled the whole dash to replace the evap core..... replacing when it was off and new seals took all of 5 min.....

Ducman82

no reason why you could not. one thing to check is the metal fitting that go in to the rubber lines. if they spin, they will leak (per Greg Brown).

bureau13

Sean, regarding x-pipe...it's leaning against the wall of my garage as I type So yeah, I will have no reason to keep the air pump.

I was twisting those rubber hoses a bit getting the compressor in too. I will take a close look there.

SeanR

I've done this a few times, where moving the compressor in to place loosened up those hoses.