I also have a Max Jax........the install is fully supported here and in my experience is most difficult step (drilling holes in concrete).

The lift itself is fantastic and now I have one wouldn't go back.

Ive rebuilt the TT and clutch including all steps required under the car.

 

The head of my HOA came over and asked why I don't have a lift...hmmm guess I need to get one!

 

THAT looks pretty sweet! Might have to think about that to go next to my 4 poster.

 

These are a bargain, but in ten years when a seal and/or hoses start leaking, can the cylinders/ hoses be rebuilt or are they a throwaway? Does it matter? If spares are available now, might be a good idea to stock up. Same for the power pack. Price is really good, just scrap when done.
My Challenger has no hoses, cyls are Massey/Ferguson and parts are readily available.
Just a consideration, as age related parts will need replacing irrespective of use.
Just a consideration when supporting the Chinese economy. I fully understand the cost issue, and these lifts are a bargain. It is really difficult to find a used Rotary, for example, as they are easily repaired and resold.

 

How completely true! After doing things like removing the rear subframe on an XJ40, doing MM's on the 928, etc etc on my back in my gravel driveway, I finally got a Bend-Pak scissors lift (the only thing that could fit in my garage/shop) and I am perfectly satisfied with it. I have rebuilt the suspension, refurbed the axles and CV joints, and am in the middle of a MM(2nd go-round)/OP job on my 86.5. What a difference the lift has made, especially at my age (73). I may pull the engine this fall, something that doesn't require a lift, but will certainly be easier thanks to having one. The scissors lift is a compromise, to be sure, but much less of one than I thought it would be- plenty of room for work underneath, and no obstructions around the car. YMMV but it was the right choice for me.

 

Which Bend-Pak did you get? I'm looking at the MD-6XP on line right now. I think that might take even less space side-to-side than the Max Jax, which is critical for me, since I can barely get the doors open and get out in my garage.

 

That is the one, and that is the reason I chose it over a Max Jax. I spent a lot of time working this out before I began my shop redo:




As it turned out, even as cramped as that looks the M-J dimensions weren't quite right- I would have required even more space on each side. The power tools in the middle are on casters, so they get move all the way to the right when the 928 is in the air. The other thing I did was pick 3 scissors lifts, and downloaded the working dimension layouts for them. This save me a lot of grief: one was a bad fit, one could not accommodate the 928 at all, and one was actually just right- obviously, the Bend-Pak. BTW, it takes no space at the side.

 

Putting that bad boy on my list :-) My other concern with this type of lift was access...does it block the stuff you need to work on? But since you're using it on a 928, it seems it does not...which is great news.

 

Perhaps you like these stands:
http://myliftstand.com/

 

Hope these pics help:

 

If my shop was width-cramped, the Bend-Pak scissors lift would get the job done for me for most everything. I had the luxury of being able to spec the shop dims during design, although it took the architect a while to get on board with the numbers. I'd move the outer garage walls, he'd add interior house space to move the interior walls. We were swapping CAD design drawings, which I was doing in 3D with the garage interior (cars, cabinets, lift, etc.) in place.

For the Max-Jax lift, I think I have the columns spaced 136" apart (outside of column baseplate) to make it possible to get in and out of the car while it's on the lift. I still cheat a little and put the car a few inches rearward if I want to actually work inside with the car raised, so the doors can open further. With the car on the lift, the arms block access front-to-rear between the columns and the car, or you get to duck under the arms to stand in the car doorway. If you don't put the columns out like that, you'll end up pushing the car into position between the columns since the doors won't open. I think the minimum column spacing as around 115" because of the arm lengths and the outboard locations of the jack pads on the 928. Anyway, planning should include some walk-around space outside the columns. The columns also limit cabinet access if you have those close to the outside of the columns.

There are several threads here on RL about the Max-Jax, including layout tips. GarageJournal dot com is also a good resource, with extended discussions on setting anchors and such.

 

More encouragement for getting a lift: After reading that scary thread about a vibration yesterday, I moved my lift arms into position, raised the car and checked my flex-plate and the clamp. Pretty sure I wouldn't have done it otherwise. Slept well last night.

My Max-Jax spacing is 128" (base plate, outside-to-outside), dictated by radiant heating tubes in the concrete. But it seems just right, both for getting in and out of the car and for swinging the arms in.

If you get one, check that the welds are properly completed - there was a recall on some recently, where they shipped lifts with only tack welds in the carriages. I'd do that with anything that holds something heavy over your head.

 

I'll go with the responder who advised checking Craigslist. I got my Rotary for $1200, delivered, no tax. It took some cleaning up, painting, and a new hose but well worth it. Installed it myself. If you have money to spare, the Mohawk is heads and shoulders above anything out there. Challenger is excellent, I could have had one for the same price but it was WAY too big. (think lifting army tanks)