Fogey1

STEP 3.5 - Don't work on it inside your attached garage for the time being. Both for ventilation, so you don't poison yourself with vapors, and so you don't burn your house down. ;-(

Carb cleaner and/or acetone starter fluid is your friend to clean it up so you can locate the leak(s). (see vapors above) So are paper towels or newspaper, which can be carefully placed and will change their appearance if they're touched by even the finest spray.

Fronkenstein

Put a plastic bag over the plenum and the disty. Then go buy yourself a gallon of Super Clean at the local hardware store. This stuff has lye in it and surfactants and will clean the nastiest crap of your engine and engine compartment. If you don't own a pressure washer, go buy one. Take a very some rubber out nitrile gloves and a good spray bottle. Spray the engine and compartment and and let it sit for 10 minutes. DO NOT GET THIS STUFF ON PAINT YOU CARE ABOUT. While I haven't harmed the engine compartment paint, it can and will damage paints in general.

Pressure wash it. Spray it a again and wait 15 mins. Pressure wash again. The blow it off with a leaf blower or compressor.

Drop your oil and smell for heavy had contamination. If the local shop screwed the mixture adjustment those injectors could be filing the plenum up with raw fuel.

Put some 2 quarts of marvel mystery oil and the balance cheap motor oil in the engine. If you can't find marvel you can use kerosene but you have to be more careful.

Now with a clean working encircled you south a little help from [your] friends can start tracking down where you fuel is spewing from.

Fronkenstein

SeanR

Whoa...............

GreatPumpkin

Jumpered the fuel pump relay. I can hear it running, but no evidence of fuel leak. Fuel in the tank is fresh and good.

I didn't push the airflow metering plate down when I jumpered the fuel pump relay. Missed that part when I was reading/trying all the suggestions. Will that make a difference?

Yes, I've got an extinguisher.

Yes, the crush washers are present.

Oil level was fine initially. I checked it today and it was showing nothing but a clean dipstick. I've got it parked in the slanted driveway with the front up on jack stands though. So I pulled the drain plug to see what the oil looked like. I drained 2-1/2 to 3 GALLONS of GAS out of the oil pan!

See previous answer ^^^ Fuel!

Just glue residue on the firewall.

I believe the oil had been changed at some point when the p.o. was working on it. The filter looks brand new and the oil initially looked good, but it is definitely now contaminated with a lot of fuel.

Yes it's sealant of some kind; form-a-gasket or silicone. I'm guessing there should be an actual gasket there?

I used engine degreaser and my pressure washer.

Thanks for the links! I had already found the manual and a few other resources, but I didn't have all those links. I'll be reading them soon.

Thats a given

----------------------------

It appears that the reason for the dark fuel (under the car) is due to oil contamination (duh, right). When I was pressure washing the engine bay, I think I discovered the source of the oil that mixed with the gas from the yet unknown leakage point. These engines are such a wide "V" and they don't have a traditional manifold filling up the space between the "V" like for example a Chevy. Consequently the top of the engine is a gigantic bowl/catch-all. When I was cleaning it, I saw oil pouring down the back side, and traced it back to watch it flow out of the catch-all when the water displaced it. I'm not sure if the p.o. had spilled oil there or if there is some other reason...

James Bailey

With that much oil and gas in the sump when it started it was more of a pump than an engine and any and all openings would be blowing it all over !!

LT Texan

Pushing down on the air valve will increase the fuel pressure in the 8 lines to the injectors.

That should simulate pressures in engine running conditions.

And please don't hydro lock your car.

Fogey1

If you have have pulled one of the injectors you will be able to see the increase in the volume of spray proportional to how far you've moved the plate - pretty cool, actually, as what usually moves the plate is the volume of air being sucked into the engine, whether you're in Miami or Denver.

The hydrolock warning is a good one, though. All the injectors will be squirting and any valves that are open will be pouring fuel in the cylinder and the closed ones will be filling the manifold.

Therefore, if you're going to be messing around a lot, as you may be, it would be wise to pull all all the plugs so that when you're ready to try the system you can spin the engine and pump all that gas (maybe) out the spark plug hole, rather than bending a rod. Of course - spark, air gasoline, etc, be careful.

AirtekHVAC

There should be no gasket material between the (2) halves of the distributor, just a plate. I lightly coated mine with shellack compound, but very thin.....seeing that would certainly make me get the FD rebuilt.

GreatPumpkin

Definitely makes sense and probably exactly what was happening here.

Thanks.

As a typical DIY, I would love to pull the CIS apart and rebuild it with a kit for less than a Ben Franklin. The rebuild instructions
http://www.porsche928forums.com/down...CISRebuild.pdf seem pretty straightforward and easy to follow.
However not knowing what/how badly the p.o. Screwed it up (as evidenced by the gasket compound and excess fuel flow) I'm probably better off in the end to go ahead and pull it and send it to 928classics...

Jadz928

're excessive fuel flow, have you turned down the AF (air fuel) screw, just in front of the FD?
Full CCW should shut off the injectors.
Generally speaking, your injectors should not be 'groaning' or 'humming' at rest. That would mean your dumping fuel.
With AF full CCW, and FP (fuel pump) jumped, turn AF CW until injectors make noise, then turn CCW until there is no noise.
At this point, hook up pressure gauge and set cold and warm pressures.
See specs here: http://www.928classics.com/4/post/20...ide-78-79.html

Now, invest that $100 in a pressure gauge (no HF junk, get a good one), and Ben Watson's book on Bosch K-jet.

No need to rebuild the FD and/or WUR until you have the right tools for the job.

James Bailey

Some of the rebuilders will NOT accept a previously opened unit as a core because of the high possibility that the internals have been compromised.

AirtekHVAC

If you have the mechanical fortitude, give it a shot. I rebuilt mine, because I wanted to master it....I made a mistake with mine, and it could have cost me the motor, but I got lucky....the experience was priceless, but I highly recommend sending it off, Jim would be my first choice....I don't feel that it is a normal diy project, like rebuilding a watch...looks simple, but takes high precision, patience, and mechanical fortitude.

Either way, good luck!

GreatPumpkin

It's been a little while, but life gets in the way sometimes. (That and a motorcycle rebuild going on currently).

I'm not seeing a AF screw. Unless you're talking about the mixture adjustment plunger? I can turn the Allen screw inside of that endlessly CW or CCW.

tailpipe

Check and make sure the cold start injector isn't stuck on

GlenL

It's spring-loaded. You need to push it down to get it engaged. The adjustment is very sensitive.