What is the small black box attached to the outboard side of the glovebox liner that connects to a milti-pin plug with a white sticker labled 6 (or 9) on it??

 

I believe you're looking at the car's "brain" where the ECUs are located.

 

It's the improbability drive.

 

This piece of electronic quandry is black, and is slightly larger than 2 penny match-boxes, and it is actually attached to the exterior surface of the black plastic material that is the BOX of the glove-box.

The improbability drive is actually currently residing in my waiting-room, and it's generating perfectly improbable case presentations today!! Why is it that it is often the ONLY functional item in my world!!

 

DONT PANIC!!
There really is a connection between your patient's history of hemorrhoids and her left arm numbness and pain.
(Has nothing to do with "compensitis")

 

It's a hidden receiver. Stuttgart issues a secret frequency broadcast and the "!" on your dash lights up. Shhhh...

 

Well, the issue is that I removed the glovebox and that attendant electronic box, and now my Cruise Control and shifter indicator lights don't work......... I was just curious as to the inter-relationship.

Today seems to be a day for recto-optosis (not related to a ****ty outlook on life)

Plus, some dork hijacked my e-bay account!!

 

That is the bulb brain. It is the unit that determines if you have a bulb out.

 

So........ the probability that it affected the transmission indicator lights and the Cruise control???

Is there another fuse, aside from #4 that feeds the Cruise control unit?

 

The trouble seemed to be that fuse 24 (interior lights) was blown. I guess this happened while I was removing the glove box. Anyway, upon replacing the fuse and reconnecting the lamp-brian, the cruise is back.

By the way Rich, something happened that i can't explain!! I tried your Cruise Brain and it acted just like mine did...... no go. Then, after I relpaced that fuse and reconnected that plug, my Cruise Brain functioned normally, while yours began to act just like mine had before.... no go. Oh well, I'm glad that mine's working again. I'll mail yours back tomorrow!! and thanks for the loan!!

 

??????????????
Having made a serious mistake one day while tracking a light/warn problem...
I pulled the Lamp Control Unit (LCU) apart.
To do so required a manly effort on my part, at one point had considered snapping off the slip fit -plastic retainer-.
Anyhow, I inspected the pins and receptacles ( they were still bright, and factory lubed) reassembled. Only then did I decide to pin test -friken idiot!-.
When I went to pull the LCU apart the second time I discovered that there was a top cap. This time instead of the pins separating this new and different cap came off of the LCU.
The top cap is the actual 'wire feed' retainer to the LCU.
This means all of those different wires coming from all those light systems around your sHARk meet here to socialize.
When this top cap comes off the wires - oh, that's where those wire pins come from- are free to spring apart without telling you where they came from.
ASIDE: I can tell you from that personal experience that there are several cascadeing Epihany's involved.
1. You realize there is not enough light.
2. You need four or five hands.
3. There is no room.
4. The wires are way to short. Similar to the wiring in a Japanese motorcyle headlamp bucket.
5. The CD schematics are unreadable -for color codes-.

You know the right thing to do is to go have a few cold one's, but the longer you are away from the problem the less chance you have of getting the wires back in their proper home.
You have one of those out of body experiences where you can feel the .357 MAG. barrel against your right temple as you giggle and pull the trigger.
To make a long story short...
How in God's name did you get the LCU connector to ACCIDENTALLY come apart?
Is this another connector all together?

 

John,

I don't know which CD you have, but I just checked, and the wiring diagrams on the CDs that Jim Morehouse ( jim928@ptd.net ) furnishes are completely legible, including the color codes.

 

Wally,
One and the same CD.
Tried using a screen magnifier, then saved the screen and put it on my PhotoDraw 2 program for sharpness and contrast modification. This helped a little and I printed off of the program.
While I could then make out about half of the end user locations, i.e., brake, turnsignal etc. I could not make out over half of the LCU color code positions, same for switches and fusing. Could be the disc ( I'll take the blame ) but when I was whining about this a year or so ago -and as I recall a lot of folks mentioned clarity problems- two other guy's sent me copies which at least on that page were equally blurred/smudged.
For the most part when I'm under the dash -in the deep woods- I draw my own schematics ... talk about time consuming.
Before you even think it : Someday I will have the hardcopy publications.
Thanks
P.S.
That was not a hit on Jim. For most of my other tinkering the CD, while at times a little difficult, is VERY helpful and by a long shot better than nothing.

 

John and Wally,
I think the problem w reading the schematics is that John has the old CD version that was done from the microfiche and not the latest adobe pdf done from the hardcopy (at least from my records..pdf version only availalbe since last November). John, you're right, that microfiche is very hard to read and if you have an S4 or later where the pages are really large...near impossible. The newer version is much clearer but still requires you to use the adobe reader "zoom" to make them all out.

hope this helps...John, email me on some options. jim928@ptd.net

Jim

 

I'm certainly happy that my pin cap stayed in place!! One lousy toasted fuse caused me enough grief, thank you very much!!

Now the next question about this errant Cruise unit is whether to acquire a new control unit, or just keep driving it with my right foot, like I have for the last year or so that I've owned the thing.

By the way...... with the borrowed control unit in place I noted that "resuming" from 30 mph to a preset 60 mph resulted in substantial throttle application and rapid resumption of the preset speed. However, the maintenance of the set-speed was rather lax. Up-hill, it would lose about 5 mph and down-hill it would gain 5 mph..... Is this much variation normal, or is it a sign of a failing controller unit?