Theo J's UDT999 Diagnostic tool
#1
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Last fall for my birthday my wife somehow miraculously knew that what I really wanted was a UDT-999. And then, of course, it sat for a while, but Anderson's GT came far enough apart (airbag out, PSD pump out, door locks out, etc) that there would be a lot of resetting to do.
Theo has a 'new' version of the diagnostics software that works seamlessly on my Win 7 Pro 64 bit laptop, no issues with the USB-COM port adapter software- just install, go to settings, the software automagically finds the virtual COM port, and good to go. So simple even a doctor can use it.
Here's a video (~5 minutes or so) going through the different screens on the 928 tab to give a sense of what it'll do. This is on Mark's 91GT.
Captured with SnagIt, not sure why the mouse pointer isn't seen, makes it a little difficult to follow.
When it gets to the RDK screen, it can't connect, that's cuz the RDK brain is gone and the connector has the 2-13 bypass.
Link to Diagnostic tool page: http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/diag/Diag.htm
No affiliation, just a happy customer, blah blah blah....![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Theo has a 'new' version of the diagnostics software that works seamlessly on my Win 7 Pro 64 bit laptop, no issues with the USB-COM port adapter software- just install, go to settings, the software automagically finds the virtual COM port, and good to go. So simple even a doctor can use it.
Here's a video (~5 minutes or so) going through the different screens on the 928 tab to give a sense of what it'll do. This is on Mark's 91GT.
Captured with SnagIt, not sure why the mouse pointer isn't seen, makes it a little difficult to follow.
When it gets to the RDK screen, it can't connect, that's cuz the RDK brain is gone and the connector has the 2-13 bypass.
Link to Diagnostic tool page: http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/diag/Diag.htm
No affiliation, just a happy customer, blah blah blah....
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#5
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I have used theo's tool for about 3 years now. I have an 88S4, so not much to look at, but with respect to diagnostics. This tool works great for me. tells me what I need to know. I was using an old Fujitsu tablet PC running windows XP, but recently got it to run on my mac book with parallels PC running windows 8.1. I can not get the latest release to run, but Ok with that.
Good tool that works. Now if I can only figure out why my new tempII sensor is not sending good values, and why my O2 sensor is rich, I will be a happy boy, but I am not liking the potential answer.
Good tool that works. Now if I can only figure out why my new tempII sensor is not sending good values, and why my O2 sensor is rich, I will be a happy boy, but I am not liking the potential answer.
#6
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They both ground under the airbox, so I'd be checking those grounds, plus the main engine ground strap (passenger side near where the exhaust manifold joins the cats), plus the ground strap in the rear of the car. Beyond that the LH and harness are the next most common suspects, but poor ground contact is the most likely probably cause.
#7
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I have the airbox off, but it looks like I have to remove the fuel regulator and damper
noting is easy in that area of the car... I also have to learn how to test the wires in the harness. I did replace the ends of my TempII connector, but I need to check its output. I am going through an cleaning all of my grounds.
My LH often discontents using the udt-999 so wondering if the LH is checking out.. But hoping for the easier fixes first.
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My LH often discontents using the udt-999 so wondering if the LH is checking out.. But hoping for the easier fixes first.
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#8
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No idea whether it applies in your case, but when the intake and water bridge is powder-coated, the sensors on the intake are no longer grounded. When you check the Temp-II sensors (remember that there are two sensors in the housing, not one, and they are checked from pin to ground, not pin to pin), also check and make certain that the sensor housing is well grounded to the engine block. In other words, the sensor may check out perfectly from pin to housing, but not from pin to car ground.
#9
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Thanks Wally I did read about the powder coating, and mine was not powder coated. I also read I need to check the values all the way to the end of the LH harness. But then again Theo's tool is telling me my LH is not processing the info, so need to know, sensor, harness or LH
#11
Drifting
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Theo is a great guy. He tutored me at length on the guts (controller by the seat and final stage) and operation of the S4+ cooling fan system. When we thought it was definitely a final stage failure, I purchased a rebuilt one from him (at a very reasonable price) and sent him a used one I picked up very cheap. Turned out it wasn't the final stage. De-oxit at every connection from battery to fan connectors fixed the problem. Now I have two working final stages, which is a good place to be. If you have questions about troubleshooting or if his tool is best for your situation, contact Theo. He won't want you to buy his product if it won't work. If it can be made to work, his explanations are very clear.