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Removing tensioner arm idler

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Old 04-17-2015, 10:59 AM
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StratfordShark
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Default Removing tensioner arm idler

The big roller came off fine but the idler won't budge. The circlip is off and I did manage to get the old bushings out at front and rear.

I've used C-clamp in past to press things in, but how do I use it to press the idler off the shaft? If I put end of clamp behind the arm on the conical part, and squeeze 27mm socket onto inner race won't it just press it tighter onto the shaft?

Thanks
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Old 04-17-2015, 12:05 PM
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zekgb
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Removed post as it's not applicable to the S4 idler assembly.

Wondering why you are trying to remove the roller, my understanding is that it's not really required unless you intend to replace it. If the roller bearings feel good just clean the assembly, press in the new bushings and go.

Last edited by zekgb; 04-17-2015 at 12:29 PM.
Old 04-17-2015, 02:08 PM
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StratfordShark
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Problem solved. I knew I had a puller somewhere in garage but it was lurking at back of a shelf so only just found it!

Puller took the idler pulley off, then I used a c-clamp to press in the new bushes (for the last few mm on one side I used the old bush between the clamp and the new bush, instead of scouting for right sized socket).

Now I need to press on the new idler...
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Old 04-17-2015, 02:23 PM
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Just wondering where to press on the new pulley so that it doesn't separate as it's pressed on?

When I pulled old one off the outer shell came off first, then I used the puller again on the remainder of the pulley. So I'm now paranoid that if I push the wrong section the new pulley will separate! Please can someone advise on the correct part to press on with a socket to press the pulley on in one piece?

Thanks
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Old 04-17-2015, 02:29 PM
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Bilal928S4
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The outer shell can be positioned with just hand strength to the correct depth. Mark where the inner piece is in relation to the outer and if the position changes it is easy to remedy. The position of the inner in relation to the arm is most important. HTH.
Old 04-17-2015, 03:25 PM
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dr bob
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The socket trick is needed, so you put pressure only on the center of the bearing as you install the whole roller. That avoids putting pressing force sideways on the races and *****, so they live a lot longer. Last time I did the TB project on my car (about a year ago now...) I identified a source for that bearing. But I needed to buy them in 10-packs, more than a lifetime supply for my car.
Old 04-17-2015, 03:48 PM
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zekgb
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I found a source for single bearings on Amazon (6004-2RS) and ordered one before tear down just in case, but on inspection the bearing was in perfect shape and the roller looked like it had only rarely touched the belt. I just left it as is, cleaned it up and re-installed with new bushings.
Old 04-17-2015, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dr bob
The socket trick is needed, so you put pressure only on the center of the bearing as you install the whole roller. That avoids putting pressing force sideways on the races and *****, so they live a lot longer. Last time I did the TB project on my car (about a year ago now...) I identified a source for that bearing. But I needed to buy them in 10-packs, more than a lifetime supply for my car.
Thanks Dr Bob I'll see which socket fits centre of the bearing. Must be 20 something mm. After that just need to put circlip back on and the tensioner arm is all rebuilt.

The old idler pulley had a little tarnish but otherwise span smoothly so probably hasn't been called into action much, if at all.



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