Mrmerlin

no you need to drop the Torque tube,
the trans will stay in position and rest on the cross member,
but it will get pushed back a few inches.
NOTE dont let the TT hang on the shaft of the transmission,
as you can snap off the 5th gear input shaft.

NOTE there are 6 bolts at the rear TT connection in addition to the trans shift shaft, and the drive shaft pinch bolt


make sure to remove both of the pinch bolts before moving the TT
Make note of how tight the rear pinch bolt was as you go to loosen it .

Make sure you have a very hi quality 8 mm allen tool thats about 3 inches long .
and you will need a torque wrench to retighten the bolts to 66 ft/lbs,
add a drop of blue loctite to the bolt threads.
make sure the tool fits perfectly into the head of the bolt tap it with a hammer.

Dave928S

I was doubtful it could be done but I've just tried it.

It is definitely possible to get a new rear rod into the correct position without dropping the TT. I have a spare linkage assembly and just tried it on my GTS, which is still on jack stands at the moment.

The rod can be fed in from the rear, without removing anything and with the one on the car still in place, but the stumbling block is getting the old one out past the foam, and the new one in. I kept the front end up to the highest point of the tunnel, and the rear end touching the underside of the gearbox, and to one side between it and the exhaust. All that stopped me getting it finally home was the foam.

The foam has a slot at the top which the rods drop down through. I haven't tried it, and I'm not going to, but wondering if the foam can be stuffed down one side to get it out, after cutting the securing pieces of tape which loosely hold it to the TT. This would make it possible to get the old rod out and new one in.

Worth a try to get the foam out ... and then back in the same location after the replacement rod is in.

Mrmerlin

FWIW anyone contemplating this repair should understand the purpose of the foam,
it does a few things.
Dampening sound, reducing vibration , and providing a air stop for the shifter to operate in.

Of all of these things to consider the air stop is the most important,
reason being that if the foam cant properly seal to the TT and shift rods,
very hot air will be drafted up through the shifter hole with a window opened or the sunroof open.

Extreme care should be used to preserve the integrity of the foam padding.

More clearance can be obtained by removing the trans mounts from the transmission and then letting the trans rest on the cross member.

jon928se

I've had exactly this happen to me, although the pin did not fall out the rear rod until I removed the shifter. You may find that the pin is intact and what has failed are the spot welds that lock it in place on the rear rod. My pin was not quite a press fit back into the rear rod, but tight enough not to have any alignment issues. I brazed it back in place (Had no access to my MIG welder at the time). It's been about 7 years and no issues yet.

I also removed the rear rod with no specific access issues - didn't touch the transaxle at all, but I may have had the gas tank removed at the time - can't remember.

Dave928S

As Stan noted it's vital that the foam is still intact, and in the correct position, after this process.

In my last post I suggested removing the foam, but also wonder if leaving the foam in position and carefully pulling the rod back, with someone inside helping to work the foam to get bracket on the end of the rod through ... and the reverse to get the replacement back in.

Do you remember if you moved/removed the foam Jon?

jon928se

Definitely didn't remove the foam.

Is it even possible to remove it without either cutting it into small pieces or removing the TT ?

Dave928S

Yes you can move it around ... but I haven't tried removing it totally. I think it may be possible, without damage, but I haven't got a test mule to try it on.

ltoolio

Just to close this out:

Robot808 came over last night to help perform the repair. Would have been impossible to do this with one person and not destroy the foam. Got the car up on Jack stands, loosened one bolt and eased the old rod out through the foam, making sure it stayed in place and intact.

He then fed the new one through from the bottom while I held the foam at the shift box with a couple long flat head screwdrivers and my fingers. Got it through, aligned the pins with the shifter, tightened the bolt and wallah. Working shifter again. Hardest part was getting the bottom outside bushing flush onto the rod, which I take as a sign of an easy repair.

Thanks for all the tips / tricks / advice / education!

Dave928S

Thanks for the final report and confirmation of the foam method ... good job

Mrmerlin

great that you got the rod swapped,
after a road test please update the thread, thanks

ltoolio

Got her out on the road tonight and she drives just fine.