Jchiodi

I have got what appears to be a bad DS rear wheel bearing? Have had a noise coming from that side for a while and while doing the cv boots I may as well do this also. The hub rocks back and forth and is completely different feeling that the PS hub. I do have some questions that don't appear to be answered too well in the WSM.

How do I get the hub off (18 in WSM)? Also do I have to remove the entire wheel carrier? 17? I can not find too much info on this in the manual..

How do I get the E brake cable loose also?

Damn I love working on these cars....lol

Any help appreciated...

Mrmerlin

well if the hub is rocking,
I would suggest you tighten the axle nut first,
its a 32MM nut torqued to 320ft/lbs
Then drive it.
NOTE a rocking hub indicates a loose nut,
and its possible that no damage has been incurred.

Please Report what you find .

Jchiodi

It will be a few days before I can. have it up for some other work right now. I will say the axle on the other side feels completely solid, even without the nut on. (after cv rehab). As the axle nut is tightened does the hub get pulled into the bearing?

jc

super928

I thought I had a bad bearing also, driver side rear. I used some lock-tite and tighten the nut. It seems to be working well.

Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist

Mrmerlin

yes the stub shaft has worked itself loose thus the bearing isnt fully pressed together.
once the bearing is pressed together the rock will go away unless the bearing has failed

Jchiodi

Got it! We'll see

Ad0911

I don't know why you want to take the E brake cable off but I think you have a good chance that it the metal extension of the outer cable is rusted rock solid in the carrier. I disassembled the carrier and disconnected the cable in the middle where it joines the other cable. I also removed the brakeshoes to have them reconditioned (new friction). Then I took the wheel carriers to a local garage to have the bearings pressed out and new ones pressed in. Assembly in reversed order.
I read a lot on this orum about people who pull the bearing while the carriers are till in the car. There's a special tool for that but it sems you can make on yourself.

Vilhuer

Correct method for bearing installation is to heat carrier and then insert new bearing in. Once temp difference is high enough it goes in easily. Very few people do it that way and simply use brute force.

Mrmerlin

about 250 F in the oven to heat up rear carrier,
and into the freezer for the hub flange and the bearing,
Spray a shot of of PB blaster into the hub carrier before inserting the bearing,
if the temps are right the bearing will drop in,
dont forget to install the C clip and the E brake shoe plate before you install the hub flange

MFranke

Just use a propane torch on the hub. Heat til your spit sizzles. The bearing will drop right in. Freezer not needed.

namasgt

I heated mine to 300F in the oven on second attempt. Not sure if 250 will do it. I destroyed the upright trying to press the bearing in (first go around I used a torch to heat the hub and left the bearing in the freezer). The new bearing got cocked to one side and damaged the bore. Threw the new bearing and the hub away.
I think the manual says up to 300F for heating. I did it again with 300F and didn't have to freeze the bearing at all, it dropped right in to the bottom. Heating the hub to the correct temperature and evenly using an oven, is crucial or you're going to end up with a damaged hub and a damaged 100 dollar bearing. You may want to leave it in the oven at 300 for over 30 minutes or until your spit sizzles on the hub body.
Some do change it with the hub left on the car using that expensive tool people keep borrowing around, maybe you should use that.

Jchiodi

I did tighten it up to +325ft/lbs. Seems tight, but I won't be able to road test it for a little while. Have to do some tranny work still.... I will post separately on that..

Thanks for the replies, I love this site!!

Bilal928S4

So did the rocking go away?