GJB928

I'm trying to remove my cylinder to re-key but I can't figure out how to get it out. I'm pretty sure I need to remove the pin. Any tips, tricks or suggestions?

joejoe

Been awhile but I think I drilled next to pin and pried out. for plastic I think I rotated it (when loose and pushed out. (another project that I should have taken pictures of)

ROG100

Search on the UK 928org site they have a good tutorial.
http://www.928.org.uk/56-re-keying-p...928-locks.html

GJB928

Thanks guys. Unfortunately I broke all my micro drill bits doing the other door locks.

waynestrutt

GJB928
Go here
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ne-strutt.html

If you or anyone else would like a pdf of this email me at

waynestrutt@295.ca

GJB928

Thanks Wayne. Your excellent, detailed tutorials allowed me to do my door locks and gas cap. The reason that I posted my question was because my '78 non alarm is quite a bit different from your write up on alarm hatch lock. I was able to drill out the pin today and re-key. Surprisingly That little bugger was harder to remove than the metal to metal pins in the door locks! I broke my metal pick.

I now have 2 extra door locks with alarm function complete with red Porsche keys. I bought them sans keys from a junkyard to get an assortment of pins to do my re-key jobs. After doing 10 locks, I've got this down. If someone needs a door lock with red key let me know. Between the keys and lock I have $125 into each. Does $75 sound fair? Or if someone wants a door lock keyed to their existing key, you can send me your key and I will key it.

Thanks All.

Dmhager

Adding some details for re-keying my early 78 rear hatch lock (pulled from #55x for #16). Quite simple actually, once you get those roll pins out. I was able to get mine out using a very small diag cutter with a sharp tip. Biggest difference from later hatch lock assemblies is that there is NO cap on the lock assembly that holds the lock cylinder in place - only held by the white plastic cam (under the cover). Here's the sequence:

1) remove the lock assembly from the hatch - 2 cap screws
2) remove the two short roll pins (~10mm long) from each side of the metal cover to expose the white barrel cam pictured above (similar white barrel and latch). My car used a roll pin (same size as others) to hold the barrel cam in place. Pull that roll pin out, but put a finger or thumb over the lock cylinder since the barrel is the only thing holding the lock cylinder in.
3) insert your correct key into the lock cylinder (to hold the lock cylinder, slides and springs in place - dont forget this - you dont want those wee bits flying)and pull the lock cylinder out of the assembly housing (the white barrel cam will come free)
4) adjust and or file the slides flush as you all the other writes up suggest
5) make sure you clean out all the old grease and debris and lube with a dry lube that doesnt attract debris (I used ptfe dry lube on the lock cylinder and a little white gease on the white bits)
6) assembly is the reverse - make sure your key works before driving those roll pins home. I reused the roll pins since I didnt need to drill anything out.

545svk

I dremeled a channel for the pin to move through. That allowed the plastic cam to be removed. To refit it, I filled the slot with superglue. The lock works fine like this.
Anther user used JB Weld - similar process and result - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...sassembly.html