Radio wiring help
03-11-2015, 05:33 PM
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Radio wiring help
Updated to serve as a reference for anyone else who may be curious about wiring a radio.
I have finally gotten around to replacing the terrible radio that the PO installed. I am trying to clean up the wiring as much as possible before I install the new Blaupunkt.
I have deleted the fader and removed associated wiring under the drivers seat. Now I'm trying to sort out what wiring in the console is actually used for.
These are the wires:
1. 2X red wires (one goes to the fader one is 12+ switched)
2. red/white = fader
3. small red with white connector = constant 12+
4. brown = fader
5. large brown = ground
6. brown/white = fader
7. red = also constant 12+ (this
8. power to antenna & stock amp
Thanks
I have finally gotten around to replacing the terrible radio that the PO installed. I am trying to clean up the wiring as much as possible before I install the new Blaupunkt.
I have deleted the fader and removed associated wiring under the drivers seat. Now I'm trying to sort out what wiring in the console is actually used for.
These are the wires:
1. 2X red wires (one goes to the fader one is 12+ switched)
2. red/white = fader
3. small red with white connector = constant 12+
4. brown = fader
5. large brown = ground
6. brown/white = fader
7. red = also constant 12+ (this
8. power to antenna & stock amp
Thanks
Last edited by kombatrok; 03-12-2015 at 08:23 PM.
03-11-2015, 05:47 PM
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03-11-2015, 06:19 PM
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Your welcome, using an ohm meter you should be able to find it in the harness where the old stock amp was, also a volt meter will show you which are switched 12v.
Depending on what you are doing you may just want to by-pass the whole /balance control thing and run new wires for your speakers, the pwr and grounds should be good to use for the Head unit.
Depending on what you are doing you may just want to by-pass the whole /balance control thing and run new wires for your speakers, the pwr and grounds should be good to use for the Head unit.
03-11-2015, 06:29 PM
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Your welcome, using an ohm meter you should be able to find it in the harness where the old stock amp was, also a volt meter will show you which are switched 12v.
Depending on what you are doing you may just want to by-pass the whole /balance control thing and run new wires for your speakers, the pwr and grounds should be good to use for the Head unit.
Depending on what you are doing you may just want to by-pass the whole /balance control thing and run new wires for your speakers, the pwr and grounds should be good to use for the Head unit.
Thanks all!
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03-11-2015, 06:50 PM
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Small (0.5) red wire is constant hot (memory) power from Fuse 24.
Large (2.5) red wire is switched power from the ignition switch. This should go thru a noise choke (looks like a transformer) a little deeper in the console.
Large (2.5) Brown wire goes to MP IV chassis ground.
Medium (0.75) red wire goes to fader in left door threshold. Sucks, red is usually power.
Medium (0.75) brown wire goes to left speakers. Sucks, brown is usually normal power ground.
Medium (0.75) red/white stripe goes to fader for right speakers.
Medium (0.75) brown/white stripe wire goes to right speakers. Again, sucks. Usually switched ground.
Small white wire should hook to a black wire molded to the antenna cable, powers the antenna amp at the windshield. Must have, or you will get very poor reception.
As already mentioned, use a test light (must-have tool for a 928) or a volt-meter to check for constant-hot and switched-hot power.
Large (2.5) red wire is switched power from the ignition switch. This should go thru a noise choke (looks like a transformer) a little deeper in the console.
Large (2.5) Brown wire goes to MP IV chassis ground.
Medium (0.75) red wire goes to fader in left door threshold. Sucks, red is usually power.
Medium (0.75) brown wire goes to left speakers. Sucks, brown is usually normal power ground.
Medium (0.75) red/white stripe goes to fader for right speakers.
Medium (0.75) brown/white stripe wire goes to right speakers. Again, sucks. Usually switched ground.
Small white wire should hook to a black wire molded to the antenna cable, powers the antenna amp at the windshield. Must have, or you will get very poor reception.
As already mentioned, use a test light (must-have tool for a 928) or a volt-meter to check for constant-hot and switched-hot power.
03-11-2015, 07:43 PM
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Small (0.5) red wire is constant hot (memory) power from Fuse 24.
Large (2.5) red wire is switched power from the ignition switch. This should go thru a noise choke (looks like a transformer) a little deeper in the console.
Large (2.5) Brown wire goes to MP IV chassis ground.
Medium (0.75) red wire goes to fader in left door threshold. Sucks, red is usually power.
Medium (0.75) brown wire goes to left speakers. Sucks, brown is usually normal power ground.
Medium (0.75) red/white stripe goes to fader for right speakers.
Medium (0.75) brown/white stripe wire goes to right speakers. Again, sucks. Usually switched ground.
Small white wire should hook to a black wire molded to the antenna cable, powers the antenna amp at the windshield. Must have, or you will get very poor reception.
As already mentioned, use a test light (must-have tool for a 928) or a volt-meter to check for constant-hot and switched-hot power.
Large (2.5) red wire is switched power from the ignition switch. This should go thru a noise choke (looks like a transformer) a little deeper in the console.
Large (2.5) Brown wire goes to MP IV chassis ground.
Medium (0.75) red wire goes to fader in left door threshold. Sucks, red is usually power.
Medium (0.75) brown wire goes to left speakers. Sucks, brown is usually normal power ground.
Medium (0.75) red/white stripe goes to fader for right speakers.
Medium (0.75) brown/white stripe wire goes to right speakers. Again, sucks. Usually switched ground.
Small white wire should hook to a black wire molded to the antenna cable, powers the antenna amp at the windshield. Must have, or you will get very poor reception.
As already mentioned, use a test light (must-have tool for a 928) or a volt-meter to check for constant-hot and switched-hot power.
Last edited by kombatrok; 03-11-2015 at 08:53 PM.
03-11-2015, 08:35 PM
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I have just done this very thing and recall the following
THere are two speaker pairs
Red and red/white
Brown and brown/white
Take Wally's advice and find your "power" wires (constant and switched power for memory). This will eliminate any red wires that are'nt speakers.
Once you have power, earth (Thick brown) and speaker wires worked out there are only a few left and it looks like you've worked those out already.
Just a tip. As a newbie installing a new stereo, any 'unused' wires coming from the unit (my unit has a vdu so inputs and outputs for reversing camera, parkbrake etc) I just left hanging...they must be taped up individually to ensure they either dont mix or earth unintentionally. Sounds like common sense, but I did not do this and after all the effort of putting the console back together, found myself with a flat battery and power drain.
THere are two speaker pairs
Red and red/white
Brown and brown/white
Take Wally's advice and find your "power" wires (constant and switched power for memory). This will eliminate any red wires that are'nt speakers.
Once you have power, earth (Thick brown) and speaker wires worked out there are only a few left and it looks like you've worked those out already.
Just a tip. As a newbie installing a new stereo, any 'unused' wires coming from the unit (my unit has a vdu so inputs and outputs for reversing camera, parkbrake etc) I just left hanging...they must be taped up individually to ensure they either dont mix or earth unintentionally. Sounds like common sense, but I did not do this and after all the effort of putting the console back together, found myself with a flat battery and power drain.
03-11-2015, 09:44 PM
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Ignore all of the other wires besides the ground (really thick brown wire), power (red, use a volt meter to find out which of the solid wires it is),
and the with wire the connects with the other white and black wire. The rest go to the fader ****.
Run fresh 16+ gauge speaker wire to all of the speakers and preserve your existing wiring as any upgrade with amp or a powerful head unit could fry your wires as the original sound system was like 100 watts max, if that.
Any decent amp upgrade can put that kind of power to one speaker. You wouldn't want to burn a wire by driving too much current through it, it's a pain to clean up.
and the with wire the connects with the other white and black wire. The rest go to the fader ****.
Run fresh 16+ gauge speaker wire to all of the speakers and preserve your existing wiring as any upgrade with amp or a powerful head unit could fry your wires as the original sound system was like 100 watts max, if that.
Any decent amp upgrade can put that kind of power to one speaker. You wouldn't want to burn a wire by driving too much current through it, it's a pain to clean up.