Troubleshooting source of oil leak
#16
Racer
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Thanks for the heads up. I was considering a rebuild... I'll save the old ones for that. Since they're about $175 each new.
That;s exactly where this stream of oil is gushing from.
I see some universal racing oil cooling kits with hoses (CX racing etc) Anyone tried this?
That;s exactly where this stream of oil is gushing from.
I see some universal racing oil cooling kits with hoses (CX racing etc) Anyone tried this?
#17
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Arrgghh!!!....just got the dreaded call that a hairline fracture was found in the block. It's the source of the oil leak. Any chance of salvaging the previous work done? Water Pump/ TB/ Valve cover gasket job. I was told there a chance of sealing it with a weld. It's on the driver side below valve covers. Any moving parts like cam chains could have done this? Any input would be welcome at this point.
#18
Advanced
Last summer my 944 had a gusher. The gasket between cam tower and head had a breakthrough. Near the front exhaust manifold side. The gasket was completely decomposed at the leaking area. If I had gone on a long trip it could have been fatal. Easy fix on a 944 but probably an engine pull on a 928.
32valve, forget my post then. Cracked block sucks, good luck.
32valve, forget my post then. Cracked block sucks, good luck.
Last edited by tlister67; 03-06-2015 at 07:47 PM. Reason: Adding detail
#19
I reused a WP that had less than 4000 miles on it after a complete engine rebuild. Yeah I know, I was being cheap.
Less than a year later, I was pulling a leaking WP out. The bearing just about completely seized.
Should of just paid Roger for a new Laso pump when everything was out and much easier to fix.
Less than a year later, I was pulling a leaking WP out. The bearing just about completely seized.
Should of just paid Roger for a new Laso pump when everything was out and much easier to fix.
#21
Nordschleife Master
Got pics of this?
I'm having a hard time trying to picture how a failed tensioner could end up at the side of the head. It sits in between the camshafts. Before it could contact the wall of the heads, you'd have valve to piston damage due to flapping chain between the camshafts, accompanied by much mechanical noise.
So either you misunderstood the issue, or they're spinning you a yarn. (based on the nature of the yarn, I'm guessing they work on a lot of audi engines)
Questions:
1. Is the garage you're using known by other 928 owners to be experienced in 928's?
2. When they replaced the timing belt, pump etc. did they by any chance undo the block fittings for the oil cooler? (there have been a few cases of people undoing those fittings and in the process of undoing them, cracking the mounting surface)
Sorry to say, but at this stage it sounds like you're either going to have to get the car looked at by someone familiar with 928's, or spend lots of dollars while an inexperienced shop learns by expensive trial-and-error.
If its only a hairline crack, you should be okay to put the valve covers back on, fill with oil to the high mark, and drive it somewhere else (or even home), or at least onto a flatbed, before you end up owing thousands of dollars for an unfixed car.
I'm having a hard time trying to picture how a failed tensioner could end up at the side of the head. It sits in between the camshafts. Before it could contact the wall of the heads, you'd have valve to piston damage due to flapping chain between the camshafts, accompanied by much mechanical noise.
So either you misunderstood the issue, or they're spinning you a yarn. (based on the nature of the yarn, I'm guessing they work on a lot of audi engines)
Questions:
1. Is the garage you're using known by other 928 owners to be experienced in 928's?
2. When they replaced the timing belt, pump etc. did they by any chance undo the block fittings for the oil cooler? (there have been a few cases of people undoing those fittings and in the process of undoing them, cracking the mounting surface)
Sorry to say, but at this stage it sounds like you're either going to have to get the car looked at by someone familiar with 928's, or spend lots of dollars while an inexperienced shop learns by expensive trial-and-error.
If its only a hairline crack, you should be okay to put the valve covers back on, fill with oil to the high mark, and drive it somewhere else (or even home), or at least onto a flatbed, before you end up owing thousands of dollars for an unfixed car.
#23
Team Owner
need some pictures before you spend any more money or make any more costly decisions
#25
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#26
Nordschleife Master
What exactly do you mean by "this"?
Chain tensioner pads?
Read Hilton's response. It doesn't sound reasonable.
Or just the cam plugs?
I don't see how that would crack anything.
And I don't see how any of this could have cracked the block. Destroyed the heads, maybe.
Do you have any pics of what they showed you? (What does it look like now?)
Chain tensioner pads?
Read Hilton's response. It doesn't sound reasonable.
Or just the cam plugs?
I don't see how that would crack anything.
And I don't see how any of this could have cracked the block. Destroyed the heads, maybe.
Do you have any pics of what they showed you? (What does it look like now?)
#28
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I saw the fracture, the car was off the lift, so using a mirror I could see it, right under the cylinder head.
Driver side, straight down from 2 spark plug ( counting from the front )
I tried taking pictures, but under those conditions, you can't get any detail.
Driver side, straight down from 2 spark plug ( counting from the front )
I tried taking pictures, but under those conditions, you can't get any detail.
#29
Team Owner
so your saying that block is cracked? in line with the #6 plug?
The oil feed goes up the outside of the #5 plug.
Could instead the cradle be cracked? as thats where the oil runs
The oil feed goes up the outside of the #5 plug.
Could instead the cradle be cracked? as thats where the oil runs
#30
As a former 944 owner I used to hang out on 944 online a lot. Several had pointed out on those engines that a failed tensioner pad can wind up with massive internal engine damage including a cracked head and destroyed Pistons and block. The failure of the tensioner causes the cams to get out of sync with the Pistons and cause interference valve to piston contact and the broken valve heads bouncing around cause the engine to often grenade.