Plus...

By his own admission…the owner of the “no start” vehicle admitted he had very limited knowledge of the workings of this vehicle…or any vehicle for that matter. So, with that being said…normally when dealing with a person that has limited knowledge in a certain area…you keep it simple. You get to technical with them and they just glaze over. And that is why a lot of folks here suggested easy/no-brainer repairs or ideas on how to start the vehicle. And through these efforts…eventually got him home.

Typically, if I was in this position (where my car didn’t start after turning the ignition key to the crank position) and was on the road with limited tools and the car is an automatic.

First I’d....

1) Turn the headlights on to see what the condition of my battery is…

If they are bright and it appears the battery “should have” enough voltage to at least give me some sort of clicking noise or start conditions…and if the battery seems fine after this check...

2) I’d move to the shifter lever, running it back and forth through the selector once or twice while holding the key in the crank position, stopping in Neutral momentarily and maybe even applying a bit more pressure while it is in Park…to help increase the chances of over-riding a bad neutral safety switches contacts…if I still get no response…

3) I’d get under the car “somehow” and tap lightly on the starter motor (not the solenoid where the wires are attached) and then retry. If I can find a person to tap on the starter while holding the key in the crank position (while making sure the car is in park or the parking brake is applied)…this is always a better deal…however, if still a no-start…

4) I’d try to jump the starter solenoid connections, somehow, whether with a screwdriver or remote starter switch (again, while making sure the car was in park or with the parking brake applied). However, if I jump the two terminals (large terminal at starter motor and small yellow wire at solenoid) and I still get nothing…and since I probably don’t have the tools to repair the vehicle where it’s at…it’s now time to call a tow truck or a friend for a lift.

5) Now, if the vehicle started after this method…I’d drive straight to the parts store and pick up a remote starter switch and assemble it on the car in a temporary manner, one being secure enough to get me to our next location...where I could get it into a garage for repairs, or home…where I would have access to a digital volt meter, test light, wiring schematic/diagraph, proper clothing, tools, beer, a jack and stands. Oh...and access to the Internet where I could ask for advice.

Brian.

EDIT: Tapping on the starter may not be possible, as "dr bob" mentioned, since there is a belly-pan covering the starter motor on later models. I'm not sure when they added the extended belly-pan. Mine is an 84 and it does not have one.

 

extended belly pan comes on the S4 and newer cars, so 1987 on

 

The neutral safety switches are generally reliable, but they won't take much in the way of submersion, salt contamination, etc. The switch is exposed on the left side of the gearbox, and while splash-resistent, it was not built waterproof by hermit seals. The connection for that switch do route through the spare tire well to a connector, so one could test there and or jumper out the faulty switch as a temporary kluge to get home. Of course, rowing the gear level with the key in 'start' position might help you identify a sweet spot in the switch's travel where cranking is possible.

In the starter relay socket, power is supplied to the relay coil from the ignition switch, while the other side of the coil is grounded via the neutral safety switch. One could use their Ohm meter to test continuity to ground at the relay socket. Similarly, with the relay out, the Ohm meter will test continuity through the solenoid to ground. The voltmeter can test for voltage from the ignition switch with the key in the start position.

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There are really only a few tools I carry in the car at all times, beyond what's in the tool panel. One is a cheapo Harbor Freight multimeter. They come on sale periodically for less than $5, and are always less than $10. Except for getting a new 9V battery every year, these are maintenance free. To support the meter, I have a couple small test leads with alligator clips on either end. There's a short 14ga jumper wire with male spade terminals on it, for jumpering relay sockets. I should have one with a switch in it, but haven't fab'd one yet. There are spare relays, a parts-store universal kit of Bussman fuses, and a set of booster cables made out of some spare 10ga speaker wire with battery-charger clips. And a couple good flashlights.

There are a few non-electrical tools too, and some cleaning stuff. But focus on the simple electrical items. The meter makes diagnosing stuff like the starter circuit fault a lot faster and more accurate. PDF's of the WSM are on a SD card for my tablet, fuse and relay diagrams on the CE panel cover. With these few simple tools, a lot of on-the-road disasters turn into small inconveniences and campfire stories. Alan's 928 electrics book, when it's done, will be mandatory carry-along item. In the meanwhile, the New User thread has some links to basic meter use if you aren't already familiar. Regardless, spend some time with Wally's annual basic electrical maintenence writeups, actually do all the things noted, and you'll gain some comfort and knowledge regarding 928 electrics.