bureau13

So do you need to pull the pipe organ pieces off to route these properly? I THINK I can get to all the plugs without doing that, but some of the wires seem to be going under and through all that plumbing. I really didn't want to pull the intake stuff off, although I keep finding more and more reasons why I maybe should...

hwyengr

Yes. 3/4 and 7/8 are clipped to the fuel rail, and you need to have the plenums off to get in there. You don't have to move the intake runners, though. Just the plenum.

bureau13

Ahh, OK. That might not be so terrible. I hope!

Mrmerlin

make sure to rinse out the oil in each of the plenums.
Roger sells wire kits so you use your original Beru ends ,
and install fresh wire comes in red and/ OR black

SMTCapeCod

If you are particular about the routing, you might want to pick up the plastic retainer clips that are screwed into the cam covers. 2 or 3 per side, if orig they are very brittle and it is difficult to remove old wires without the clips splitting.

bureau13

I already ordered the wires from Roger. Red, 'cause he promised me it was good for an extra 10mph ;-)

My intake needs to be painted SO so badly...but I'm guessing that taking all of that out is a bit of an undertaking.

I will rinse out the oil, good idea, and the clips are probably a good idea as well...

Mrmerlin

if you decide to remove the intake manifolds,
then use compressed air first to blow out the areas around the fuel injectors and the mating areas of the manifolds there will be sand type dirt that will go flying

bureau13

It might actually be cleaner up top than the rest of the motor, since the PO had the intake off when he was doing the vacuum lines, but that sounds like a good idea. I'm the king of dropping things in bad places, so I will need to be extra careful here.

davek9

To just do the wires, remove the two plenum.
Losing the outer most clamps only, and the one on the left side for the brake booster at the plenum.
This way it's easier to reinstall, you don't need to un bolt the tubes, to do wires, if you do follow the above advise

bureau13

Sounds good, thanks to you all for the advice!

WyattsRide

SMTCapeCod

And at that point you may as well loosen the upper hose clamp on the central "T" and rock out it from in between the runners.

Well before you do consider that it is a real PITA to get back in....but if you are going to do checks on some of those other components for the creeping idle, you've already got some of the parts out of the way and can take a look without getting into additional bolts and gaskets.

But do heed the caution that it is a pain in most cases to get it in and out...it's just one of those nuance deals with the angles and using something to move the rubber union back around the center T when you put it back in.....anyone nearby to lend a hand if need be?

bureau13

I don't think there's anyone near who knows the cars, unfortunately. I was thinking about that center T, and the ISV and all that. Once I get to that point, I've got to go for it lol! I will heed the warnings, but if I can't get to some of those other things without removing the T, I'll probably have to do it. When I struggle getting it back in, I'm sure I'll post a thread begging for some pointers

M. Requin

Do you have a copy of Mike Frye's "Top End Refresh" for the S3? You can PM him and get a copy (21 page pdf) or if you can't run him down PM me and I'll send you one. (Mike, chime in if you would rather I not.)

bureau13

I do not have one, but that sounds like something I would want and need! I'll see if I can find him...