Motor mount and oil pan gasket rabbit hole
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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So I have everything off and my OCD is kicking in.....
While I have everything off I am doing:
the steering rack rebuild and bushings
Gts baffle kit
Oil pan stud kit
Rod bearings
Mucho cleaning
Repainting sway bar and crossmember
I also did ball joint and front spoiler repair
I always feel bad when I use Waynes tutorials as his engine is always spotless..
Drives me crazy.
I'll be cleaning grounds inspecting wiring, etc
Can we say scope creep?
While I have everything off I am doing:
the steering rack rebuild and bushings
Gts baffle kit
Oil pan stud kit
Rod bearings
Mucho cleaning
Repainting sway bar and crossmember
I also did ball joint and front spoiler repair
I always feel bad when I use Waynes tutorials as his engine is always spotless..
Drives me crazy.
I'll be cleaning grounds inspecting wiring, etc
Can we say scope creep?
#4
Rennlist Member
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I have done rod bearings twice as a WYAIT and both times I was sorry I did it because the original bearings were still just fine with no measurable wear. I normally try to do all the WYAITs I can think of but, it was just an unnecessary expense as far as my cars were concerned. Your MY might be different but I had 150K and 200K miles on my two cars.
My $.02.
Good Luck.
My $.02.
Good Luck.
#5
Drifting
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....84-
I'm going to follow your advice. My car just crossed 88K miles. I don't know how much steel is in a 928 engine, but I was really impressed to find no metal clinging to the magnet in the oil drain plug.
I'm going to follow your advice. My car just crossed 88K miles. I don't know how much steel is in a 928 engine, but I was really impressed to find no metal clinging to the magnet in the oil drain plug.
#6
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i have 155K on mine... i know i may may not need them, but as much of a pita it is to get everything off the $150.00 is worth the insurance for me, especially sie i was autocrossing it for a while...
the cleaning, etc is the killer.....
so Jim, what would you suggest to do also... I am going to replace the front shocks since i have the lower a arms off.....
i figure i am going to spend about 1K on the parts... i already have the opg and MM......
the cleaning, etc is the killer.....
so Jim, what would you suggest to do also... I am going to replace the front shocks since i have the lower a arms off.....
i figure i am going to spend about 1K on the parts... i already have the opg and MM......
#7
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
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If the beqring have no measurable wear, there is no point changing them. It won't give you extra insurance. Actually it's the opposite, you are taking a chance by introducing a possible faliure point.
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#8
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Thread Starter
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i guess your right.....
i'll plastigauge them and see what i get.
i did find two interesting things while doing this:
1 there was quite the accumulation of leaves and debris everywhere... i am surprised the exhaust did not catch anything on fire....
2 someone modified the tow eyes... the two plates that hold in the forward lower a arm clamp....
they were cut short and had a plate that was parallel with the ground welded on them.. there is a tapped hole in the center of both.... wonder what this could have been for?
i'll plastigauge them and see what i get.
i did find two interesting things while doing this:
1 there was quite the accumulation of leaves and debris everywhere... i am surprised the exhaust did not catch anything on fire....
2 someone modified the tow eyes... the two plates that hold in the forward lower a arm clamp....
they were cut short and had a plate that was parallel with the ground welded on them.. there is a tapped hole in the center of both.... wonder what this could have been for?
#9
Drifting
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I also suffered mission creep on this job - it's irresistible!
Didn't succumb to baffle kit, rod bearings or stud kit, but did succumb to new ball joints, front shocks, springs, rack bushes, rack gaiters, tie rods and ends, sway bar bushes...
Didn't succumb to baffle kit, rod bearings or stud kit, but did succumb to new ball joints, front shocks, springs, rack bushes, rack gaiters, tie rods and ends, sway bar bushes...
#10
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Yes I was amazed at the scope creep as well. I think it will be good. I like to say I did the front of the engine, the top and now the bottom. The bottom expanded to the front suspension, steering, alternator and cooling system with new Radiator. I just think our cars are starting to show some age, and doing this PM stuff will help them last another 25+ years.
Now I have to put everything back together and fix some electrical systems in the cabin.
Now I have to put everything back together and fix some electrical systems in the cabin.
#11
Rennlist Member
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Just remember: Rod cap nuts are one time use only. Unscrew them and you will be replacing the nuts even if you don't do anything to the bearings
Imo said, "you are taking a chance by introducing a possible failure point."
and he is absolutely correct.
Imo said, "you are taking a chance by introducing a possible failure point."
and he is absolutely correct.
#12
Pro
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Oil change every 10,000km or 12 months and filter change every second oil change. Assumes a good percentage of open road driving.
They're very solid and durable.
.
#13
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Take the blue pill..
#14
Race Car
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I've wondered about this- stands to reason that, due to time and deterioriation especially on cars with fluid seepage, the resilience on the SB bushes will be degraded. But, installing a new set with attendant spilttting of the bushing always makes me wonder whether ground is gained, lost, or its a stalemate from the R&R.
#15
Drifting
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I've wondered about this- stands to reason that, due to time and deterioriation especially on cars with fluid seepage, the resilience on the SB bushes will be degraded. But, installing a new set with attendant spilttting of the bushing always makes me wonder whether ground is gained, lost, or its a stalemate from the R&R.