Clutch WYAIT?
11-26-2014, 08:16 PM
#1
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Clutch WYAIT?
I have my clutch out for a release bearing job.
I'm going to do the pilot bearing while I'm in there.
Should I replace the clutch plate as well? It is 8.5mm thick; the depth from the surface to the high point on the flared rivet head—as described at WSM 30-27—is 0.8mm, which is well within the spec listed there, but I'm not sure the spec for a single-disk clutch is the same as that in Chapter 30 of the WSM, which is generally two-disk-specific.
Anything else?
What's the current thinking on the right grease to use? Optimoly Olista Longtime 3 EP only, or some substitute?
I'm going to do the pilot bearing while I'm in there.
Should I replace the clutch plate as well? It is 8.5mm thick; the depth from the surface to the high point on the flared rivet head—as described at WSM 30-27—is 0.8mm, which is well within the spec listed there, but I'm not sure the spec for a single-disk clutch is the same as that in Chapter 30 of the WSM, which is generally two-disk-specific.
Anything else?
What's the current thinking on the right grease to use? Optimoly Olista Longtime 3 EP only, or some substitute?
11-27-2014, 06:44 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
Agree with the ball cup on the release arm. In addition:
If the rear main seal is original, I'd pull the flywheel off and do that too.
Check the ball at the top of the bellhousing, which the clutch release arm fits over - they can wear too and become misshapen, especially if the plastic bush has failed and its metal to metal contact.
Lastly - while access is good, clean the heck out of the crank position sender, and then remove it from the top side to make sure its lubed and not binding. That way if you ever need to pull it out due to failure, you'll know it comes out easily.
If the rear main seal is original, I'd pull the flywheel off and do that too.
Check the ball at the top of the bellhousing, which the clutch release arm fits over - they can wear too and become misshapen, especially if the plastic bush has failed and its metal to metal contact.
Lastly - while access is good, clean the heck out of the crank position sender, and then remove it from the top side to make sure its lubed and not binding. That way if you ever need to pull it out due to failure, you'll know it comes out easily.
12-01-2014, 01:25 PM
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
12-03-2014, 08:59 AM
#7
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 0
Received 60 Likes
on
34 Posts
Be sure to get new pinch bolts. Check the intermediate shaft for wear. Sometimes you can use lapping compound to take out any rough spots on the splines of the shaft.
If the rear main seal isn't leaking, I'd leave it alone. I've seen too many people replace it only to have it leak on them after that.
You should check the flywheel to make sure it;s in spec, but it probably is.
The only other item that comes to mind is the TT bearings. You can easily check to see if the front one has migrated or not. If it's more than 20" (I think) from the front, you need to address it.
If the rear main seal isn't leaking, I'd leave it alone. I've seen too many people replace it only to have it leak on them after that.
You should check the flywheel to make sure it;s in spec, but it probably is.
The only other item that comes to mind is the TT bearings. You can easily check to see if the front one has migrated or not. If it's more than 20" (I think) from the front, you need to address it.