Can cracked upper hatch lock be welded?
11-06-2014, 02:21 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Can cracked upper hatch lock be welded?
Have a cracked one and was wondering...
11-06-2014, 02:37 PM
#2
Drifting
I think it can be welded, but it does not hold up. Best is to replace it. If you have an alarmed one, you can replace it with a cheaper non-alarmed one. The only thing different is that you cannot disarm the alarm when you open the hatch. The alarm has to be disarmed by unlocking the doors. HTH.
11-06-2014, 02:53 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
That is what i remember, too. Sad.
11-06-2014, 04:29 PM
#4
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Pot metal so does not weld very well if at all.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
11-06-2014, 04:42 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
Mine cracked about 2 years ago and I put it back together with JB Weld. Since then I bought a replacement off fleabay but haven't made the changeover yet since it is still working. I let it cure for 48 hrs before returning it to active duty
11-07-2014, 09:22 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
11-07-2014, 09:43 AM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Sorry Kevin, I am in Canada and the car is sleeping in Florida.
I will be there in 3 weeks and will send it then if you still need it.
Note: I paid the most attention with the JB Weld mixture to ensure I got the strongest bond and I believe I did. Also on installation I did not over torque the two hold down bolts
I will be there in 3 weeks and will send it then if you still need it.
Note: I paid the most attention with the JB Weld mixture to ensure I got the strongest bond and I believe I did. Also on installation I did not over torque the two hold down bolts
Trending Topics
11-07-2014, 09:46 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Pot metal repair
Has anybody tried this? Looks promising.
11-07-2014, 10:30 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sorry Kevin, I am in Canada and the car is sleeping in Florida.
I will be there in 3 weeks and will send it then if you still need it.
Note: I paid the most attention with the JB Weld mixture to ensure I got the strongest bond and I believe I did. Also on installation I did not over torque the two hold down bolts
I will be there in 3 weeks and will send it then if you still need it.
Note: I paid the most attention with the JB Weld mixture to ensure I got the strongest bond and I believe I did. Also on installation I did not over torque the two hold down bolts
11-08-2014, 01:23 PM
#11
I suggest practicing on scrap until you are confident and proficient with the torch to control the heat if you don't have previous experience, as a little too much heat will instantly deform the casting or turn it into slag before you can blink. Pot metal goes from solid to melted liquid without really having a pliable stage.
11-13-2014, 02:33 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Received the alarm hatch lock today
There is a fine crack on one side - see picture. All the other two sides are free of cracks. Without a actual break to flow the solder in to I am not sure there is something to repair at this point.
I may re-key and hold off on the repair for now.
I may re-key and hold off on the repair for now.
11-14-2014, 02:43 AM
#13
Rennlist Member
Kevin,
I tried getting mine welded - no good. I also tried a 'low temperature' alloy rod but the melting point of the rod was very close to that of the latch so it deformed from the heat.
I am (still) in the process of getting some replacements cast with some additional material to add strength (alarm type ones). I was expecting the intial pair to turn up this week for photo's and testing. Roger has offered to market them once available.
Myles
I tried getting mine welded - no good. I also tried a 'low temperature' alloy rod but the melting point of the rod was very close to that of the latch so it deformed from the heat.
I am (still) in the process of getting some replacements cast with some additional material to add strength (alarm type ones). I was expecting the intial pair to turn up this week for photo's and testing. Roger has offered to market them once available.
Myles
11-14-2014, 09:58 AM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Kevin, if it was mine I would first clamp it in such a way to prevent separation, then very carefully use a dremel cutting wheel to make two parallel cuts along the sides and deep enough (without cutting right through) to put some JB Weld, lay a 1" headless nail across (cut off the nail heads if you can) and then cover the entire repair with more JB Weld but keep the repair level with the sides. Let cure for 48 hrs. This will strengthen it and the nails would keep the two sides together.
Refer to my 3rd grade illus.
Refer to my 3rd grade illus.