'87 928 S4 Timing Belt Replacement?
#1
![Question](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
My last timing belt replacement was July 2002, at 120K miles. It was only driven 25K miles through mid-2009. Since then it was not driven. The car has always resided in Santa Cruz, CA, a moderate climate year-round. It is currently being readied to drive once again. The key question is: does the timing belt need replacement now, due to age, even though it still has 35K miles remaining before the, otherwise, normally scheduled replacement due at 180K? Thank you for your kind advice and counsel! Joe
#2
Team Owner
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
you know its not too hard to swap in a new belt and tensioner boot ,
and maybe a new thermostat and rear seal.
plus a coolant change.
This based on the fact that the belt was done properly 25K miles ago
and maybe a new thermostat and rear seal.
plus a coolant change.
This based on the fact that the belt was done properly 25K miles ago
#3
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is the cost of a new belt and related components worth the peace of mind knowing that it's in good shape?
#4
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My last timing belt replacement was July 2002, at 120K miles. It was only driven 25K miles through mid-2009. Since then it was not driven. The car has always resided in Santa Cruz, CA, a moderate climate year-round. It is currently being readied to drive once again. The key question is: does the timing belt need replacement now, due to age, even though it still has 35K miles remaining before the, otherwise, normally scheduled replacement due at 180K? Thank you for your kind advice and counsel! Joe
Upon acquiring mine, I chose to drive down to Precision Autowerks and have her thoroughly looked over. I'd advise that you do the same after a prolonged period of not being driven.
I would not trust a 12 year old timing belt, just as I wouldn't trust 12 year old tyres. Even though you might get away with it, I'd prefer to pay for the 'insurance' of a new one.
Last edited by rnixon; 11-03-2014 at 05:02 PM.
#5
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Adirondack Mountains, New York
Posts: 2,415
Received 315 Likes
on
165 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Mine was 20 years old when I got the car. I had the seller drive it to me (200 miles), I paid for it, and immediately put it away until I did the TB/WP job and a few other things. It was a tough a few weeks!
As it happens, the old belt looked as good as new. It was tracking perfectly. The gears looked as good as new. The tensioner appeared to be working correctly although the boot was torn and there could not have been much oil in it (tension seemed good, by "feel").
So, I could have driven it until the winter layup, but there was no way of knowing. No 928 expert would have given me permission to take the risk. I could have given myself permission, but I chose not to.
No one here will give you permission either! It's up to you - will you be able to forgive yourself if the worst happens?
As it happens, the old belt looked as good as new. It was tracking perfectly. The gears looked as good as new. The tensioner appeared to be working correctly although the boot was torn and there could not have been much oil in it (tension seemed good, by "feel").
So, I could have driven it until the winter layup, but there was no way of knowing. No 928 expert would have given me permission to take the risk. I could have given myself permission, but I chose not to.
No one here will give you permission either! It's up to you - will you be able to forgive yourself if the worst happens?
#6
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Depending on how the car was used and stored, location, temperature, presence of oil, smog, etc., there's always that small chance it will be OK. It.s not a gamble I'd be willing to take. Cost of failure is easily enough to 'total' the car in the minds of insurance underwriters, for example. The rubber deteriorates based on exposure to heat, petro products, oxone, etc. A belt that sits in one spot for an extended period will take a set as the rubber stretched or shrinks around the various drive gears. Moving the stretched rubber and reinforcing around to new positions and angles risks failure.
My car was nine years old with 22k on it I bought it remotely. It had been professionally prepared for storage. I still had it flatbedded to the dealer to have all the front stuff refreshed. Yeah, the belt looked like new, but no way to see inside. Cost for that service was in excess of 10% of the purchase cost, and worth every penny.
My advice is to do it now, along with a pile of other age-related stuff like every piece of rubber in the engine bay and the fuel system.
My car was nine years old with 22k on it I bought it remotely. It had been professionally prepared for storage. I still had it flatbedded to the dealer to have all the front stuff refreshed. Yeah, the belt looked like new, but no way to see inside. Cost for that service was in excess of 10% of the purchase cost, and worth every penny.
My advice is to do it now, along with a pile of other age-related stuff like every piece of rubber in the engine bay and the fuel system.