...and I've taken stock of most of the parts in question:

- knock sensor plastic has crumbled
- Hall sensor connector (male) crumbled
- TPS connector seems fine, but has seen better days--no crumbling/breakage, but just looks old.
- TPS looks old.
- ISV connector is fine.
- CPS is currently soaked with PB Blaster.
- I'm pretty sure the two right-side breather hoses are fine.
- I'm pretty sure the long 3-way hose is fine.
- I'm pretty sure the left throttle-to-brake venturi is fine.
- The two larger hoses attached to the ISV are rigid and were stuck to the nipples--had to split one with a blade.
- The flappy actuator does not look 23 years old--the whole area around that actuator is very clean. I'm going to try to test it. I might need to get a Mityvac, or the like.
- All soft fuel lines are out for replacement.
- All dampers and regulator are out for replacement--two had fuel in the vacuum chamber.
- Some of the small vacuum line elbows have seen better days; will probably just get the whole $65 VC kit from Roger.


I learned two things I haven't seen mentioned elsewhere:

- remove the intake side plates after the fuel rails are out, and you have easy access to all intake-to-engine nuts;
- replace the round, 6mm hex bolts that secure the damper brackets after removing the brackets. Those bolts help seal some type of coolant ports--still not sure what they are, but I had a valley full of water from two days without those bolts being replaced.

I also found it handy to leave the injectors in until after the intake was out.

Also, I thought I was going to be fine paint-wise because my intake looked so good--no flaking was visible. Now it is clear that nearly all of the paint is simply floating above the surface of the intake waiting to flake, which it now has. It's got me thinking about powder-coating.

I'll have pics tomorrow. It got too dark tonight.

Louis

 

powder coating will last as long as anything, just have to take out the butterfly assembly

 

Don't trust looks, my flappy actuator looked fine, held vacuum. Then on the way home from SITM it died.

Moral of the story change everything WYAIT.

 

Recommend Check the rubber stand-offs/embedded studs that support the TB for breakage.

Well if applicable, I'm familiar with the S3 innards....

Recommend Check the main vac line back to the trans to ensure it is holding.

While Far afield of intake R&R and vac work, but the heater valve and hoses are right there.....

 

Hi Louis.

Paint tip: when U have removed the side panels, feel the sharpness of the outer edge on the manifold body. This sharp edge is a stress raiser and is where the paint begins to fail as it heats and cools, so smooth it off a little before doing anything paint or coating wise.

I repainted my S4 manifold 12 years ago (used an automotive acrylic) and it's still happily in place today.

Cheers & HTH.

 

It does seem the way to go, but I'm still trying to decide. I'd probably leave the flappy rod bearings in to keep paint out of those holes and replace them afterward.


I saw your post about that. I've got it on the replace list. I hope to make it to SITM next year.


I don't think I have any rubber stand-offs that support the throttle body. There are rubber stand-offs that support the ISV bracket under the throttle body, and they look and feel fine. My throttle body is held tight to the bottom of the intake manifold with four 13mm bolts and is suspended above the engine from there--only other contact is with the MAF sensor, which runs to the air filter housing.

Good point on the vac line to the tranny. I'll probably have Roger throw that one in too. The elbow at the modulator didn't look great.

You're right, the water bridge, heater and radiator hoses, and thermostat are all right there. I am replacing the two sensor/switch things on top of the water bridge. The coolant hoses look and feel good--I'm sure they've been replaced at some point. For that matter, at least one of the breather hoses around the intake had an Oct/2005 date on it. So, someone has been in there before, and the car seems well taken care of. The fuel lines have been changed before also. I get the feeling that a significant amount of R&R went on about 9-10 years ago.

I know that edge. I've got a nice clean cut across one of my knuckles from it.

I am seriously considering painting it myself. I'll have to see what I feel like after trying to get some of the old finish off. What did you round off the edge with--fine file, sanding block?

Thanks all,
Louis

Pics to come.

 

Just a flat file Louis. Gentle rounding strokes about 20deg from parallel. Won't need to remove much. Your other thumb will tell you when it's enough.

 

You mentioned some coolant leakage down into the valley from the fuel damper bracket bolts. It can also run into cylinders 4 & 8, hydro locking the pistons on first restart. Best to pull all the spark plugs and the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine over to expel any coolant before firing it up that first time.

Mike

 

I painted my cam covers with high temp Bar-B-Que paint after priming with a high adhesive aluminum primer. Two years and high temps (and a couple of pressure washes) and it still looks great.


ALWAYS! ALWAYS! ALWAYS! Turn over at least TWICE by hand before attempting starting. This is engines 101. Besides the coolant, you can never be 100% sure nothing fell into the cylinder. Turning by hand , while only 99 44/100 ths sure, is the best way to prove it. Personally I turn it five or six times from paranoia.

 

Got it.

Thanks for the advice. I might have let it get by.

I didn't see any evidence of water in the 4 and 8 ports, but I couldn't be sure some hadn't made it past the valves. I need to check the plugs anyway, I guess. How much turning of the engine will make sure the water is out? Should I pour a little gasoline in 4 and 8 to help clear the water?

I need to change the oil too. Maybe I should change it twice--once after throwing any water out, before any starting, and a second time after the engine runs for a few minutes to get warm. Any suggestions here?

Thanks,
Louis

 

Does cranking with the plugs out and fuel pump fuse removed count as "by hand?"

 

No. If a small nut or washer fell in it will jam up and the starter motor has a LOT of torque. By hand means a socket on the pulley nut and pull. If you have the spark plugs out it should turn quite easily.

 

Got it. Will do. Thanks for the advice. How big is that socket, if you don't mind?

 

27mm

 

Thanks you.