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Okay, time to go "whole hog"

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Old 10-02-2014 | 04:02 PM
  #16  
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[QUOTE=L_perm;11686551
What else? I've got a set of engine mounts and transmission mounts, as well as steering rack bushings. I also have a new silicone oil pan seal.
[/QUOTE]

I've just replaced the engine mounts on same model year (91 S4) and mileage (75,000) as yours.

Admittedly I also changed front shocks and springs at same time, but the difference is fantastic. Ride is so smooth and controlled, and car that was impressive before now even more refined. You notice it just starting the engine. So new engine mounts will make a big difference, and I would love to have the new tranny mounts you have!

I also changed pan gasket. I didnt have leaks before in terms of pools of oil, but it was so greasy around the old gasket, especially around front and at oil sender. Psychologically it's just nice knowing the pan is now very clean, whereas before it was a blackened thing!

Changed rack bushes too. Again I can't tell how much improvement in steering (no vagueness, very direct and precise feel) is down to new bushes as I also changed tie rods and ends and had alignment done at Porsche. The old bushes actually looked pretty good but who knows? If you are changing mounts then not much extra work to change bushes too (and new pan gasket will keep them in good condition).

I started off with idea of just doing the engine mounts so the project did become severe case of WYAIT (I also replaced lower ball joints, rack boots, and the power steering supply and return lines to reservoir)! The obvious downside is of course cost and time to finish, but you also need to be organised in keeping track of parts, deciding on which bolts/nuts to renew and matching specs (thread, grade), and thinking carefully about what order to put everything back together so that you don't end up repeating work. But you are absolutely right in pointing out benefit of just getting to know your own car at a much deeper level, and becoming better-informed about what work may be required in future. Even if you don't replace stuff it's a great opportunity just to clean things up - aluminium parts like drop links and control arms come up like new. Cleaning is not a concours/OCD thing - much easier to spot leaks etc in future.
Old 10-03-2014 | 01:32 PM
  #17  
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Thanks for all of the replies guys. Very helpful.

The underside stuff will come second, as I don't have a good way to get the car up, and there is quite a bit to do under there:

- motor mounts
- tranny mounts
- oil pan gasket
- steering rack bushings
- fuel pump(s); filter is new
- diff flush
- PSD bleed

I also have a set of Koni shocks and Hypercoil springs to put on when I get the car up.

The topside is just underway:

- intake and throttle body removal/refresh
- TPS, MAF, Knock, Temp II, and CPS replacement
- new fuel lines
- check/replace vacuum lines/elbows as necessary
- replace fuel regulator and dampers
- flappy check/replace actuator
- ISV check/replace
- send injectors off to be cleaned and tested
- check Hall sensor wire and connector, replace if needed
- replace oil filler gasket if needed
- check plugs and wires, replace if needed

I'm leaving the cam covers alone this time around. My timing belt and timing belt hardware are almost new. AC expansion valve and drive belts are almost new.

Other things come to mind:

- Should I address the distributors in some way?

- Given that the timing belt also runs the water pump and oil pump, is there something I can do to insure myself against a catastrophic event caused by the water pump or oil pump?

- Should I think about the brake lines? How often do they get replaced?

Thanks,
Louis
Old 10-03-2014 | 08:25 PM
  #18  
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From: China Grove, NC
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Might want to change the short lines from the calipers with braided ones...

If you ever get stuck or stranded, feel free to give me a shout. Pm me for number....

I'm in china grove, work all over Charlotte. If anything I could give you a ride home
Old 10-05-2014 | 11:30 AM
  #19  
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Thanks Ron. I'll keep you in mind. Once I get this thing put back together, hopefully I can attend something and meet some of you guys.

Louis
Old 10-05-2014 | 12:59 PM
  #20  
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From: Overland Park, KS
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Louis
Have you thought about getting a lift? Although 2 post lifts are better for maintenance, a 4 post lift is incredibly practical. I have two 4 post lifts in my 3 car garage and I love them. You can get a decent 4 post lift for $2,000. They will deliver to your driveway and you put it together yourself - not difficult other than moving the one heavy piece (about 440 lbs) into position. A lift makes diagnosing, wrenching on and detailing your cars so much easier. Plus put some plywood between the runners and you have a great place to store "stuff" when you're not using it for a car. I think it's analogous to an OBDII scanner - not that many people have them, but once you get one you can't imagine doing without. Plus, they pretty much pay for themselves by allowing you to tackle some repairs you would otherwise pay to have done. OK, infomercial over.



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