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I have nearly finished Chapter 6 of Dwayne's guide. Some remarks:
1. The timing belt looks good, tension seems reasonable to my fingers, cam gears look good (correct? see photo). I will continue, of course.
2. The starboard cam gear cover has been in contact with an AC tube, causing some serious wear (see photo). I suppose collapsing motor mounts might be involved - I'm not sure what they would look like - see photo. I'm inclined to put two sheets of teflon at the point of rubbing to prevent further fretting, and monitor their condition.
3. The tension warning system plug on the cover is no where to be seen. I can feel cut off wires under some tape near the harness where the green wire emerges.
4. I couldn't find the inspection port for the locking tool immediately - the cover plate and bolts are missing.
5. Non TB related: Outer CV boots are torn; good ones are in transit.
6. Though I have little experience in serious wrenching, I will be doing a more careful job than the previous guy.
I'm off to procure some suitable locking tool bolts. Then later today, off to the Zone 1 get-together in Vermont in the white car. Tuesday, I meet Adam near Niagara Falls to pick up his nice manholes w/tires. Oh - I'll need to order some Canadian money from my bank.
Curt, wasn't there another thread on your TB? May I suggest you keep all of the TB related posts in one thread. It will get confusing if you have 2 on what is really one subject.
Also I would get an assortment of metric bolts and nuts. Boltdepot.com IIRC, or summit racing or other auto supply house, or some sponsors here have kits.
Sponsors have crush washers for various apps. They know what goes where. The chain stores won't know squat. I've heard some VW parts are cheaper and interchangeable; I went to MB for crush washers b/c it was convenient. Never again. My point is Roger Tyson, 928 Intn'l are your friends. They will save you time and in many cases money.
You must be thinking of somebody else, Steve. My other three threads included an introduction, my delivery, and the 16-inch tire availability issue. But I appreciate the thinking that I should keep all my TB stuff in this thread, and start a collection of bolts. I've had the car for just a week, but I'm already making a list for a third order from Roger!
All looking good and those cam gears look like new - did you buy a lottery ticket today?
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
The TB and WP are out! It appears I should tend to the oil pump O-ring, correct? Looks like the WP was weeping a bit of coolant. The vestigial pulley down by the crankshaft is not sliding out easily, rust on the studs, I fear.
At the other end of the car (torn CV boots), the axle nuts are being stubborn - I think I'm at the torque limit of a half-inch breaker bar with extension. I've tried an impact wrench (of doubtful quality). Heat 'em up? Should I get a 3/4" breaker bar, socket and a longer pipe?
Lots of oil beneath oil pump, but the bearing support looks clean.
You'll love it when it's all clean and shiny aluminum! Take a look at the low areas on either side of the block below the oil filler neck. Mine were full of oil and when that happens, the oil spills forward and runs down behind the cam covers, adding to the mess in there. To say nothing of bathing the alternator and other stuff in oil!
One other gratuitous piece of advice, consider getting Porken's 32VR tool and set your timing with it. Over time it can get pretty far off and the car runs wonderfully better when you put it back where it belongs.
At the other end of the car (torn CV boots), the axle nuts are being stubborn - I think I'm at the torque limit of a half-inch breaker bar with extension. I've tried an impact wrench (of doubtful quality). Heat 'em up? Should I get a 3/4" breaker bar, socket and a longer pipe?
339 foot pounds for that axle nut. Methinks a bigger breaker bar is in order
I'd be less inclined to mess with the oil pump o-ring than the oil filler neck gasket (as Bilal suggests)- lots of that oil slick is coming from something farther north than the top of the oil pump.
WYAIT, while the coolant is drained, you might tempt fate and pop the coolant crossover off and R&R its gaskets and the rear thermostat seal. They are good every 25-year maintenance items. Just be sure to Kroil the heck out of the 6mm socket head cap screws that hold the coolant crossover to the heads- they can corrode, proceed with caution.
+1 on a 3/4" breaker bar. Archimedes recommends this one:
Those cam gears look good - low mileage early 87? (They look like the part number ends in 00 - possibly take-offs from an early 32V).
The oil mess on the front could be the tensioner - but changing the oil pump seal and o-rings is easy to do while you're in there. Just make sure you torque it up properly (with clean threads) as there've been a few cases of people failing at that and having the gear come off, leading to many ugly, expensive, metal noises.
Great job diving into doing the TBWP - its a good way to start ownership!
Your cam gears do look good, but it might be worth having them re-coated now so that will still look good the next time you need to do a timing belt job. I have seen it posted that re-coating is $40 or so. Seems like a good insurance policy to me.
Those cam gears look good - low mileage early 87? (They look like the part number ends in 00 - possibly take-offs from an early 32V).
Great job diving into doing the TBWP - its a good way to start ownership!
96,000 miles. I don't recall the service record for the belt change (20 years ago at 60K) mentioning the cam gears. The last digits of the part number are actually "01". Despite all the filth elsewhere on the front of the engine, the area where the belt runs is clean as a whistle. I wonder if cam gear wear is mostly from abrasive dust.
As to the "diving in" I'm doing - I would never have attempted it without the help of the guys on this forum. I've been on a lot of different forums over the years - this one, this group of people - really stands apart. Like the car!
I'd be less inclined to mess with the oil pump o-ring than the oil filler neck gasket (as Bilal suggests)- lots of that oil slick is coming from something farther north than the top of the oil pump.
WYAIT, while the coolant is drained, you might tempt fate and pop the coolant crossover off and R&R its gaskets and the rear thermostat seal. They are good every 25-year maintenance items. Just be sure to Kroil the heck out of the 6mm socket head cap screws that hold the coolant crossover to the heads- they can corrode, proceed with caution.
+1 on a 3/4" breaker bar. Archimedes recommends this one:
A 40-inch breaker bar - yes! Let's see: 339 ft-lbs / (40/12 ft) = two 50 lb sacks of potatoes.
My restraint in not driving the car before doing the must-do's is weakening (and the weather is turning, too.) But I'm getting good advice here on the might-as-well's. Damn.
I have ordered the water bridge and oil filler items, as directed. I have everything removed, so reassembly can soon begin, which is very exciting. Well, I still have the old tensioner to remove, but it ain't going back on (PKT, thank you). The air pump will be meeting a similar fate.
But for the next few days, I will be transforming dirty bits of junk into gleaming examples of Porsche Design art.
Incidentally, I met a 928 guy in Vermont last weekend at the Zone 1 Concours. He and a buddy park their 928s nose to nose every five years, and change the TB on both - in six hours.
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TB/WP progress report, with anomalies
George Layton March 2014
