This isn't a difficult job, but it can easily become a big mess. I spread the draining of the fluid, removal of the pan and filter, and the filling process over a period of about two weeks. I'd planned on doing it in a weekend, but I've been busy lately... letting it drip meant dealing with less ATF clinging to the transmission.

First I cleaned the transmission above the pan. I put one of those plastic under-bed storage containers on the floor under the transmission. These are perfect length, width, and height for placing under the transmission to capture all the degreaser, water, brake cleaner, and dirt that fell.

Drained the ATF from pan and torque converter.

After removing the reservoir, pan, and filter, I let the transmission drip for two or three days into the same under-bed storage container (cleaned) - for days.

Found the missing O-ring for the Bowden cable fitting looped around the lever mechanism. It apparently fell down in at some point in the past. I've noted a few other folks noticed the O-ring was missing...I bet it's hanging on the lever arm.

Installed the new filter.

The big relief was finding my overtightened pan is still flat. It must have a bit of spring in it as it shows no permanent deformation. Put the gasket on the pan. I installed the pan/gasket carefully...like tightening the bolts on a wheel...moving around from bolt to bolt in a kind of crossed pattern, making sure I was raising it evenly until the gasket was snugged against the transmission. Then I switched to the torque wrench and continued the pattern of tightening until all were at 6 Ft.lbs.

Applied some Corning 111 gasket lube to the O-ring for the reservoir to pan fitting.

READY FOR THE FILL:

I expected this to be an easy and possibly messy job. But the method I came up with, which is probably similar to what others have tried, worked better than I could ever have intended. The way the hose was set in a fixed position at the transmission was dumb luck...and worked perfectly. Not a drop of ATF on the the floor.

First I set up a step ladder and suspended a clean funnel with a about 18 inches of clear hose attached to almost 4 feet of fuel hose I had. I suspended the funnel with a bungee cord. Note the fluid level in the tube is the same level as in the transmission.




View of hose under the car.




Above the hose loops upward on the left toward the ATF reservoir. Below the hose is shown wedged between the fitting on the transmission and the exhaust heat shield. This holds the hose securely. The hose loops up and reaches its apex where "Made in USA" is stamped. The hose then loops down, with mouth of hose held securely in the reservoir lightly against the plastic screen.




The way the hose is held perfectly in place for filling was an accidental discovery while fiddling with it. Turns out the fluid transfer is slow due to the fluid friction in the hose and perhaps a bit more resistance due to the mouth of the hose pressed against the screen filter in the reservoir. The slow fill rate is perfect to avoid suddenly overfilling the small reservoir.

Filled the funnel with ATF, soon discovered I didn't need to rush under and pinch off the hose (with the needle nose locking clamp shown below). Got on the creeper and watched the fluid slowly rise until it neared the ribbed seam of the reservoir (full level). Then rolled myself out and ran the engine for 10 seconds to pump the fluid into the torque converter.

Filled the funnel and repeated the process 3 or 4 times. When the fluid level is nearing capacity, running the engine will not empty the fluid reservoir. In my case it was about half-way down the sighting window. I put a bit more fluid in the funnel and it just reached the MIN line. Realizing there was perhaps enough fluid in the hose slung under the car, I raised the funnel and most of the fluid flowed in the reservoir. Now fluid level was about halfway between MIN and MAX.

I clamped the hose with the needle nose clamp and removed the hose.

To top off the reservoir I used this nifty oil can from Harbor Freight. The hose has a wire guide that can be bent to fix the hose in an appropriate position. Pump the lever and it pumps small amounts of ATF into the reservoir.




This photo is actually from a previous top off...now the reservoir is clean!



This is the clamp I used to stop the flow in the hose when finished. Here I was using it to clean the lint off the heat exchanger fins while replacing the HVAC blower and recirc flap actuator.


Not a drop of ATF hit the floor during any of this....I can't believe it.

Drove the car about 50 miles today. No leaks. First time I've seen the transmission DRY.