My shark has a problem similar to the one in this thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...c-problem.html

At first the clutch was still engaging but the pedal would only come back up halfway, a few days later it wouldn't work when cold but no problems at all with the engine at temperature.

Today I decided to bleed the clutch but as soon as it was pumped once and the bleeder opened, it floored and now it doesn't travel back up at all anymore. We' ve tried a couple of times but there's no more pressure to bring the pedal back up again. The oil that came out was black and watery.
Last year I did a brake job and bled the brake system with fresh dot3. Today I've checked the oil in the brake system and although not entirely fresh it still has the original colour. (see pic:brake oil on the left, clutch oil on the right)




The clutch and brake use the same oil I think, so should I have bled the clutch along with the brakes when I did that job last year? Somehow I was thinking the oil from the brake and clutch would look similar.
There's also some residue in the bottle that captured the clutch oil. Rebuild or replace the clutch slave cilinder before trying anything else?

 

If you have an oil pump can put the brake fluid into the slave and pump it in reverse otherwise use the RF caliper and put the hose on the bleeder then to the slave this operation requires 2 people.


Then you may have to open the master by removing the snap ring and letting out the remaining air then put it back together

 

I battled clutch problems like this for several months, replacing the slave and master multiple times. In the end, I'm not sure what actually fixed the issue, but it's been stable now for about a year. Here are some possible fixes and observations:

- Change to the blue fluid if you can find it. I'm convinced that adding Valvoline Synthetic to existing unknown fluid cause some of my seals to swell.
- Make sure the blue line is up hill all the way to the reservoir
- No need to over engineer the bleeding process. Pumping the slave by hand should work.
- Keep in mind if the master piston is not retracting all the way, you can't successfully bleed the system since the hole that lets fluid into the master may not be open.
- I decided on the last master rebuild not to cut any length off the spring and it's been fine.

 

Good point: Pre-load on the master will prevent the system from filling. You want some slop between the pedal and rod to make sure of this.

Check that the release arm is moving freely. Maybe the clutch just isn't closing.

 

Thanx for the info! I'll try the reverse methode first,if that doesn't do the trick, I'll try the "Another way to save time on the clutch Hydraulics" method. Great writeup btw. Mr.Merlin

 

Reverse bleeding did the trick.