Power loss at 2000rpm
#1
Power loss at 2000rpm
For a 1980 Automatic (US Spec)...
There is a considerable loss of power at around 2000 rpm in (most noticeably) third gear and possibly to a lesser extent in second gear. The engine will reach 2000 rpm fine and then will drop to under 1000 and begin to struggle. It will slowly climb back up to 2000 before dropping again. Letting off and then reapplying the gas partially ameliorates the problem, and the engine will move fairly quickly back to 2000 rpm, but will then drop back to below 1000. I cannot get the engine above 2000 nor over 45 or so mph. Help??
There is a considerable loss of power at around 2000 rpm in (most noticeably) third gear and possibly to a lesser extent in second gear. The engine will reach 2000 rpm fine and then will drop to under 1000 and begin to struggle. It will slowly climb back up to 2000 before dropping again. Letting off and then reapplying the gas partially ameliorates the problem, and the engine will move fairly quickly back to 2000 rpm, but will then drop back to below 1000. I cannot get the engine above 2000 nor over 45 or so mph. Help??
#3
Only when driving (Haven't tried it in reverse, but...). In park it will rev freely, and the engine runs well. Similarly, I drove it today and when very gentle on the throttle it would run fairly well up to 2000 to 2200 rpm without dropping in power or revs. I didn't try to push it because I really wasn't in the mood to have it die on me in the middle of traffic on a two lane road.
#4
sounds like transmission problems. If the engine revs freely and it will reach high RPMs in park, not while driving, then the transmission or torque converter are failing.
when the engine is off, do the back wheel spin freely and quietly when the car is on up in the air on stands? In other words, no frozen wheel bearings or frozen parking brake problems?
when the engine is off, do the back wheel spin freely and quietly when the car is on up in the air on stands? In other words, no frozen wheel bearings or frozen parking brake problems?
#5
Not sure. Will have to check when I have access to them. I did consider transmission problems as a possible issue. Would low transmission fluid cause this or will I end up needing a new transmission?
#6
sounds like transmission problems. If the engine revs freely and it will reach high RPMs in park, not while driving, then the transmission or torque converter are failing.
when the engine is off, do the back wheel spin freely and quietly when the car is on up in the air on stands? In other words, no frozen wheel bearings or frozen parking brake problems?
when the engine is off, do the back wheel spin freely and quietly when the car is on up in the air on stands? In other words, no frozen wheel bearings or frozen parking brake problems?
These automatic transmissions are very sensitive, and their response to low fluid levels will manifest. Will result in major problems if not appropriately filled and driven - hopefully will not be irreversible in your case if levels have been chronically low while driven.
#7
This problem has only manifested in the past couple of days, so I don't think/hope that they haven't been low for too long. Is there a way to check the transmission fluid without having to put the car on jack stands and drop the transmission?
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#8
The problem has only been occurring for two or three days, so hopefully the levels haven't been low for too long. The car is my daily driver (at most 20 miles a day), however. Is there a way to check the transmission fluid level without getting under the car and dropping the transmission? (since I don't have a jack or jack stands available, I'd like to avoid having to go to Harbor Freight to get them if possible)
#9
On your MY you may have a slightly different reservoir container than mine, but the 'mechanics' of checking are the same. There are 3 marking levels on it: 20deg C, Min, and Max. I don't pay to much mind to the 20 mark as this is level when car is cold and engine off/pump off. Min and Max levels are read when engine running and at operating temp. Car must be level for true reading.
Get under by the R rear wheel, first clean off reservoir so you can read the markings, need light too. Let car idle for at least 10 - 15 mins to operating temp. Can do this when car on ground (easier if it is level and up).
Below is a pic of my transmission before I installed it. Note location of reservoir. Markings are on the front small face in front of the cap. Yours maybe slightly different, but I believe location is similar. If it is different, find it and position yourself accordingly.
Get under by the R rear wheel, first clean off reservoir so you can read the markings, need light too. Let car idle for at least 10 - 15 mins to operating temp. Can do this when car on ground (easier if it is level and up).
Below is a pic of my transmission before I installed it. Note location of reservoir. Markings are on the front small face in front of the cap. Yours maybe slightly different, but I believe location is similar. If it is different, find it and position yourself accordingly.
#10
I've not been under an '80, but I'm sure you don't have to drop the transmission.
But you do have to get under it. How long do you think you can have this car and not have ramps and/or stands? Seriously. Are you in an apt. complex? It's a reality no matter where.
To the point, someone put a mirror on a yardstick so he could see the level marks w/o lifting, he must have had 3 arms to get light and leverage up under there, but you will have to breakdown and buy a pump to get fluid into the res. I think those are under $10. And an asbestos glove: the exhaust is smack in the way on mine. Good luck.
But you do have to get under it. How long do you think you can have this car and not have ramps and/or stands? Seriously. Are you in an apt. complex? It's a reality no matter where.
To the point, someone put a mirror on a yardstick so he could see the level marks w/o lifting, he must have had 3 arms to get light and leverage up under there, but you will have to breakdown and buy a pump to get fluid into the res. I think those are under $10. And an asbestos glove: the exhaust is smack in the way on mine. Good luck.
#15
Never mind. Am going to tow it back to Jacksonville and work on it at some point in the near future. Should the transmission need to be replaced, would it be advisable to switch to a manual from an automatic? I have all the other components for a manual transmission from a '79 Euro we parted out earlier this year, just not the transmission itself.