Pod lighting
#1
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Tested out my refurbished pod, and have a couple issues.
First off, replaced all bulbs with LED. The dash backlighting does not work, did not work before I took apart either. Should they not light up with the first turn on the headlight switch? Or the second? I have (4) headlight switches, and have the same result with all of them. I suppose the dimmer could be bad, causing no light? The headlight switch led does work tho.
Next, the turn signal bulbs, I hit the flasher, it's switch bulb works, but the led in the pod does not light, no matter which direction I remove and replace the bulb in, so no blinking arrows.
Quite a few of the indicators work, so I am happy with that...a few don't, and I have no ideas how to test them on the pod, like the low fuel light, and the temp. Light.
I have tested all bulbs, in their sockets, with a 9v battery
I have a replacement turn signal switch assembly which is good
I tried using the variable washer rheostat in place of the dimmer
I did note that the (2) pod wire harnesses seem loose on the connectors
I have not solved my ignition switch / starter issue yet.
I only have the cluster sitting on the dash, so I can easily test or try any ideas you guys come up with.
Thanks!
First off, replaced all bulbs with LED. The dash backlighting does not work, did not work before I took apart either. Should they not light up with the first turn on the headlight switch? Or the second? I have (4) headlight switches, and have the same result with all of them. I suppose the dimmer could be bad, causing no light? The headlight switch led does work tho.
Next, the turn signal bulbs, I hit the flasher, it's switch bulb works, but the led in the pod does not light, no matter which direction I remove and replace the bulb in, so no blinking arrows.
Quite a few of the indicators work, so I am happy with that...a few don't, and I have no ideas how to test them on the pod, like the low fuel light, and the temp. Light.
I have tested all bulbs, in their sockets, with a 9v battery
I have a replacement turn signal switch assembly which is good
I tried using the variable washer rheostat in place of the dimmer
I did note that the (2) pod wire harnesses seem loose on the connectors
I have not solved my ignition switch / starter issue yet.
I only have the cluster sitting on the dash, so I can easily test or try any ideas you guys come up with.
Thanks!
#2
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Ron, I believe the 3 main cluster bulbs light when ign acc is on, no matter what headlamp switch position... at least for '78.
So for that and the turn signal bulbs, you need to check for voltage at the corresponding bulb sockets on the flex pcb and cluster connections. And if you can trace the diagrams back to the ce panel, you can check for pwr there.... also check continuity btw that end of the harness socket and the bulbs.
Ps. I think both your issues run thru the ign circuit, so if you've had something going on there, that may be where you find your problem. Don't start there, but you may end up there. I like to work both ends of the circuit, then work toward the middle if needed.
So for that and the turn signal bulbs, you need to check for voltage at the corresponding bulb sockets on the flex pcb and cluster connections. And if you can trace the diagrams back to the ce panel, you can check for pwr there.... also check continuity btw that end of the harness socket and the bulbs.
Ps. I think both your issues run thru the ign circuit, so if you've had something going on there, that may be where you find your problem. Don't start there, but you may end up there. I like to work both ends of the circuit, then work toward the middle if needed.
#3
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Thanks Jim....
Yea, something strange seems to be afoot in the ignition. I assumed the ignition switch was bad since the push button start had been installed, but I have the same results with the new ignition switch. I dont want to reinstall the push button start, so I got some diagnostic work to do.
How do I know if the actual key switch mechanism is broken? Seems to be ok, but not sure.
Yea, something strange seems to be afoot in the ignition. I assumed the ignition switch was bad since the push button start had been installed, but I have the same results with the new ignition switch. I dont want to reinstall the push button start, so I got some diagnostic work to do.
How do I know if the actual key switch mechanism is broken? Seems to be ok, but not sure.