How to remove oil pressure sender connector?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
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I have oil pan off so can get full hand round connector, but it doesn't want to move!
Any (non-destructive) tips for pulling it off please?
It's working but I may want to remove it to make putting pan back on a little easier for couple of the bolts.
Thanks!
Any (non-destructive) tips for pulling it off please?
It's working but I may want to remove it to make putting pan back on a little easier for couple of the bolts.
Thanks!
#2
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You need to counter-hold that larger nut above (actually this is bushing that threads into block) and then loosen the sender. I can't remember the sizes of wrenches. A short stub wrench is good to counterhold that bushing the sender threads into.
#4
Drifting
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I used an adjustable wrench to remove the larger hex bushing (or base) that screws into the block - with the sender attached. I separated them on a bench using two wrenches.
The bushing/base was leaking at the block (was not tight), so it was easy to remove. There is a large soft aluminum seal ring between it and the block. If you use my method you might want to replace it. And there is a spring and some other bits inside that bushing/base. Take it out slowly and take care that it all comes out in order and make sure it goes back in the same way.
Stan (Mrmerlin) recommended I use some Loctite Thead Sealant with PTFE (in addition to the aluminum seal) and NOT over tighten the bushing into the block. It was good advice - stopped the leak completely.
The bushing/base was leaking at the block (was not tight), so it was easy to remove. There is a large soft aluminum seal ring between it and the block. If you use my method you might want to replace it. And there is a spring and some other bits inside that bushing/base. Take it out slowly and take care that it all comes out in order and make sure it goes back in the same way.
Stan (Mrmerlin) recommended I use some Loctite Thead Sealant with PTFE (in addition to the aluminum seal) and NOT over tighten the bushing into the block. It was good advice - stopped the leak completely.
#6
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#7
Chronic Tool Dropper
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It pulls straight off. Mine took a sharp tug on the connector but no tools needed. If the rubber waterproofing seal on yours is crispified, it may take some prying with a couple screwdrivers to break it free. Bad news is that the connector itself is NLA as a separate item. So try a few sprays of WD-40 or similar light solvent/lubricant to see if it helps any.
The connector is held on my the friction of the connector on the plastic end connector on the sender. The pins on the end of the sender itself are bullet-shapped IIRC, and participate in the holding until past the little detents in the 'bullets'. Move it straight down 6-10mm and it should slide off more easily from there.
The connector is held on my the friction of the connector on the plastic end connector on the sender. The pins on the end of the sender itself are bullet-shapped IIRC, and participate in the holding until past the little detents in the 'bullets'. Move it straight down 6-10mm and it should slide off more easily from there.