martyp

Everything I read indicates the relay was deleted for my '90 model year. Is there some other component that performs that function? I was hoping that part might be contributing to my problems.

I'm having issues with both my driver window (recently in-operable) and sunroof (mostly works). I will be cleaning/de-oxiting the switches this weekend. Anything else I should be doing or looking at?

worf928

The window/sunroof controller is under the driver's seat. Seems to been increasingly common failure. Several threads on it.

martyp

Thanks, I'll see what I can dig up

ROG100

Lots of failures or issues and the part is like $300 and is not the correct part anymore. VW part but you loose the one push up feature and also the windows/sunroof close with the key.
Ask me how I know 8>).
I know Hans has been looking at making an aftermarket alternative.

martyp

Thanks Roger.

I pulled all of the console switches, cleaned the switches and connectors, deoxited, and re-installed. Also pulled the window controller and cleaned/deoxited all of the connectors and contacts. Still no joy with the driver side window.

I do hear a click from the controller when I press the driver side window switch, just no glass movement. Looks like I need to crack the drivers door and see what is what.

AFAIK I don't have express close on the windows and sunroof. I do have sequenced express open on both. I guess I've never tried using the key with the windows/sunroof open, but I'll give that a shot tomorrow. I didn't see any open connectors under the seat - pressing the side of my head into the rear floor probably affected my vision

worf928

Seats are easy to remove as long as you don't strip the bolts. Always inspect seat rail bolts upon removal; if they look even a little buggered-up replace them with new.

Symptoms indicate a dead window lifter motor. Might be bad connection. Lots of good WYAIT items in the door panel. At least one Rennlister has rebuilt a dead lifter motor.

Unfortunately, one sign of a dying window controller module is that it will kill lifter motors. Ask me how I know...

Alan

Express close on the drivers window is a ROW only feature as delivered - however its a simple jumper on the harness at the windiow controller to select ROW mode. Plug together the single pin connectors on the Black & Black/Yellow wires (there is another pair - check the colors).

ROW mode gets you drivers door express (with ignition on) as well as enables basic window operation whenever the doors are open (e.g. with ignition off). Both features are very useful.

Alan

martyp

Unfortunately I was side tracked on Sunday with house stuff - gutters, lawnmower repair, and other sundry yard work. Sigh.

I will be taking the seat out as Dave suggests to get a better look-see, and will consider the jumper Alan pointed out. Thanks for the help.

Once I find some info on cracking the door and do it I'll report back

martyp

Got the door opened today and it looks like the motor is bad. I have voltage at the harness connector after pressing the switch (down). The voltage remains until I press the switch again (up).

The contacts on the motor were horrible - it took some emery cloth, steel wool, vinegar, baking soda, and finally deoxit to clean them up, but still no motor movement. I separated the transmission from the motor and tried again - same. I can turn the separated transmission via the external gear by hand easily.

On another note, I was surprised to see this after I got the panel off - this can't be the factory mirror hook up can it?



The butt connectors are open on both ends, no epoxy, and look like a vector for corrosion.

Alan

Take the motor apart and clean & lube...

No those are not stock connectors - someone has likely swapped the mirrors

Alan

worf928

+1. Mirror swap done by lazy hack.

martyp

Ya, pookie, looks like at least one PO has been in here. I took the motor apart and examined things more closely. The brushes and other internals look good. The overload has been jumpered, and I think this may be the problem:



There is also a lot of corrosion on the still-connected side of the jumper and where the solder joint touches the transmission case:



It looks like the transmission is missing a plastic plug right near the corrosion point (missing on left, there on right), probably how this got so bad:



So I have a couple of questions. I'm assuming the armature is OK but I can always check that now that it's out.

How important is the overload and should I just replace the whole unit?

If I replace the unit would the Saab equivalent be OK or should I go factory?

If I repair the jumper can I just put some permatex in place of the missing plug and maybe a small bead around the motor-transmission interface?

Oh, and thanks for all of the help

Alan

The overload protection in a late model with the relay drivers is actually not that important - the relays shutdown based on load accumulation when the motor stalls OR as a backup after a timeout which isn't a lot longer than the normal run time for a full close/open.

I'd just resolder it.

Alan

martyp

Thanks Alan I'll give it a try this weekend. Based on everything else I've seen in the door I have some other items to address now too. I'm not sure what I'd do with weekends otherwise

martyp

Worked like a champ. Window moves smoothly in both directions. Now I'm getting some plastic sheet to replace the moisture barrier, gonna lube everything, and close her up.

Thanks to all who helped!