snoz

I’m trying to repair some of the connectors on my top-end wiring harness. The pictures I took before disassembly were not that great. From looking at them, the wire with the grey sheath (red arrow) appears to be my CPS wire. I think the one pointed to by the blue arrow is for the idle air control solenoid. Someone went nuts on the connector that I’ve stripped the covering off of (second picture). It had a cracked rubber boot over shrink wrap and seems to have epoxy underneath. My plan is to do away with that and just replace the connector and boot. Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks,

-Ethan

Kevin in Atlanta

Roger has the connectors.

syoo8

That's what mine looked like.

You can buy a kit (Roger at 928s R Us has them in stock) that will provide you with a new boot and connector, as well as the terminals. You will also need a good-quality open-barrel crimper. The crimper needs to fit the terminals snugly, otherwise it will 'squish' the terminal when crimping rather than 'crimp' it.

You will have to cut away the epoxy filling when you do this job, and be careful when you do to keep precise track of which terminal goes to which wire.

The new-style Bosch connectors are very nice- they have a mechanism that allows one to disconnect the connector without the use of a dental pick (and, inevitably, a magnet to find the lost clip.)

snoz

Yup. I've got one and am going to need to buy more.

snoz

Thanks Scott and Kevin. Am I correct in thinking that the one pointed to the red arrow is the CPS connector and that the blue one is the idle control solenoid?

outbackgeorgia

So,
Being cheaper than most, and wondering just why there is even a connector to fail on the CPS, I used solder and shrink wrap. 99.999% reliable. If I ever need to replace the CPS, which is unlikely as most failures are at the connector, I will just break out the soldering iron and heat shrink again. Without a PROPER crimper ( $150-$200) one cannot make a correct crimp on this type of connector.
Dave

snoz

I'm not sure about that. I bought a crimper off of Amazon after seeing it in a post from Hacker. It seems to work very well. Thanks Hacker! The crimps that went well seem ok to me (below). Judge for yourself.


From looking at pictures I took and others I've found here, I'm pretty certain that I'm working on the CPS connector. Mine had been "repaired" once evidently before.

Here's where I'm at now. The tool takes a try or two to get used to as evidenced by me mangling the connector for the white wire. I'll be ordering more tomorrow along with connectors for the injectors, MAF, and whatever else.

Leon Speed

Those crimps look fine.

outbackgeorgia

Well, OK if you say so.
However, there is no insulation crimp. The insulation should be crimped for strain relief so vibration does not fatigue the wires. That is the purpose of the larger crimp tabs that accomplish nothing in these crimps. Also the wires are stripped a little too long and could interfere with the connection or short to an adjacent wire. These crimps would not pass even the most cursory automotive manufacturers QC inspection. But, this is only my opinion, and I am not trying to be critical, but vibration, over time, will likely cause these to fail. Just not sure when.
Will probably work fine for your purposes.
Dave

Maybach_Man

Great in fo on the crimping tool snoz!!
Does any body have a link to a tool to remove the connectors from the housings?

Geoff

Leon Speed

Yes you're right. The insulation should be crimped as well.

snoz

Yeah. I bought this one. It seem to work alright.

snoz

Interesting. The connectors I removed didn't have any insulation in the crimp, but someone had definitely been into that connector before. I'll probably redo them.

Maybach_Man

Cool ...thanks!!

snoz

Here is my second try at it. This crimper took a couple tries to get used to. I would suggest ordering a few extra terminals when starting, and testing on a chunk of wiring that's not part of the harness you are trying to repair. I was not remotely familiar with a ratcheting type of crimper.