Pulling the Engine?
#1
Addict
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Hi Guys!
Now that the 79 is coming along and running well, I am moving onto to my project list.
I have a replacement oil pan and gasket as the current one has a HUGE pipe plug in it currently. I am also going to convert to the later motor mounts (volvo) and do the timing belt/ cam seals at the same time. I also may need to resurface the flywheel to eliminate my clutch chatter.
With this list in mind, I am tempted to just pull the engine to make the projects a bit easier. What are your thoughts? I know these jobs can be done with the engine in the car. I did the clutch last year on my back as it was at the house and I have no lift.
If I do pull it, I was going to leave the bell housing and clutch assembly in place on the engine if possible.
I have a month of two before I do this, just looking for some input
Thanks
Guy
Now that the 79 is coming along and running well, I am moving onto to my project list.
I have a replacement oil pan and gasket as the current one has a HUGE pipe plug in it currently. I am also going to convert to the later motor mounts (volvo) and do the timing belt/ cam seals at the same time. I also may need to resurface the flywheel to eliminate my clutch chatter.
With this list in mind, I am tempted to just pull the engine to make the projects a bit easier. What are your thoughts? I know these jobs can be done with the engine in the car. I did the clutch last year on my back as it was at the house and I have no lift.
If I do pull it, I was going to leave the bell housing and clutch assembly in place on the engine if possible.
I have a month of two before I do this, just looking for some input
Thanks
Guy
#3
Team Owner
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^^^^Bell and clutch will need to be removed.
Before the engine is pulled. and installed after engine is dropped in.
Best to leave the engine in the car and work around it,
your not going to need access to any parts of the engine that you would not have with the engine in the car,
NOTE the flywheel could be a PITA to break the bolts loose,
the best way is with an impact gun and triple square tool thats fresh.
That said Bill Ball devised a way to hold the tool into the bolts and use a wrench to turn the tool.
Before the engine is pulled. and installed after engine is dropped in.
Best to leave the engine in the car and work around it,
your not going to need access to any parts of the engine that you would not have with the engine in the car,
NOTE the flywheel could be a PITA to break the bolts loose,
the best way is with an impact gun and triple square tool thats fresh.
That said Bill Ball devised a way to hold the tool into the bolts and use a wrench to turn the tool.
#4
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2013
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C'mon be a man, pull the engine. If you have a garage and a picker its not bad, if you have a lift its a cinch. Follow the 30-40 step listing out here on the list on what you need to do and you'll have it out in no time. Just don't forget to pull the bolt in the drive shaft spline otherwise you'll never get the clearance to pull the clutch shaft back and drop the clutch assembly down into your chest. You don't have to pull the bell housing either, just unbolt it from the engine. At least that is how it worked out for me on my 79 where the back of the tranny is mounted to the battery box.
You will be MUCH happier if you pull it AND you get the added benefit of caring for all the clutch and brake master and slave cylinders and associated lines. Plus you can detail the engine compartment and replace the well-worn firewall heat reflector if it still is in existence. Lots of compelling reasons to do it. But then again I am a glutton for punishment.
Cheers,
Fronkensteen
You will be MUCH happier if you pull it AND you get the added benefit of caring for all the clutch and brake master and slave cylinders and associated lines. Plus you can detail the engine compartment and replace the well-worn firewall heat reflector if it still is in existence. Lots of compelling reasons to do it. But then again I am a glutton for punishment.
Cheers,
Fronkensteen