'85 Water pump & the PET
#1
'85 Water pump & the PET
I've just finished removing a failed water pump from my '85 and noticed a major inconsistency between the actual pump and what the PET says about it. The pump has a total of 14 M6 hex head bolts securing it to the block, the PET calls for 13 (5 M6x20 & 8 M6x25). I show 5 M6x20 and 9 M6x25. They all have washers, the PET says only 6 of them do.
I thought I'd bring this up for two reasons. First, because yesterday I drove 20 miles for new bolts and washers. Now I'm short one bolt and 8 washers (OK, so I'm cheap; I don't buy stuff I don't need, unless it's a 928). Second, the guy that put this water pump in last time left one M6x25 out of the assembly and it wasn't me It's not why the pump is leaking, that's due to a failure of the spindle seal, but *still*! For $90K, you'd think they could count the bolts right!
Be forewarned.
I thought I'd bring this up for two reasons. First, because yesterday I drove 20 miles for new bolts and washers. Now I'm short one bolt and 8 washers (OK, so I'm cheap; I don't buy stuff I don't need, unless it's a 928). Second, the guy that put this water pump in last time left one M6x25 out of the assembly and it wasn't me It's not why the pump is leaking, that's due to a failure of the spindle seal, but *still*! For $90K, you'd think they could count the bolts right!
Be forewarned.
#2
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
There's one long one (6x73 N0403071) that goes though the center cover.
#3
I didn't take out any long ones, the pump is off. It just has an extra hole (and threads in the block) for an M6x25.
Not sure which bolt you're thinking of? Maybe a different model year?
Not sure which bolt you're thinking of? Maybe a different model year?
#5
Oh. Of course I had to remove the center cover to get at the WP. I'll have to figure out which one that was now...
While we're on the subject, anyone have an opinion on using a copper gasket seal during replacement or not? If so, both sides of the gasket or just the pump side? Mine came off pretty clean, minimal block scraping needed, I'd like that to happen next time too.
And what about putting anti-seize on the boss that holds the tensioner idler pulley?
Many thanks,
Scott.
PS: Still, the PET doesn't really mention this
While we're on the subject, anyone have an opinion on using a copper gasket seal during replacement or not? If so, both sides of the gasket or just the pump side? Mine came off pretty clean, minimal block scraping needed, I'd like that to happen next time too.
And what about putting anti-seize on the boss that holds the tensioner idler pulley?
Many thanks,
Scott.
PS: Still, the PET doesn't really mention this
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#10
Rennlist Member
Nice pic!
Another way to tell is place them all the bolts in the pump while holding it so the bolts all go through the pump and threads point to the ground (impeller down, pulley up).
All bolts should extend the same length through the pump.
If you put a short one where a long should be it will pull the threads out of the block when torqued, so don't do that.
Another way to tell is place them all the bolts in the pump while holding it so the bolts all go through the pump and threads point to the ground (impeller down, pulley up).
All bolts should extend the same length through the pump.
If you put a short one where a long should be it will pull the threads out of the block when torqued, so don't do that.
#11
My PET ends at 103-10 for the 85-86. On that page, #9 is the tensioner roller. However, on that page there is a #38, described as a "Hexagon Head Bolt, M6x73" that looks like what Ken was talking about.
#14