S4 Performance Chip
#16
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Well the whole point is that it will vary significantly car to car, depending on condition.
Since I'm sure lot of folks just add chips to cars that already have other issues that limit their performance in stock mode (just hoping for the magic cure), results can be all over the map.
Before you do anything its always wise to ensure the car is working quite as intended in the stock config. Only then start changing other things.
Alan
Since I'm sure lot of folks just add chips to cars that already have other issues that limit their performance in stock mode (just hoping for the magic cure), results can be all over the map.
Before you do anything its always wise to ensure the car is working quite as intended in the stock config. Only then start changing other things.
Alan
This is why I try to encourage people to get a before dyno before doing any modifications. If the power is grossly off for a stock car, fix that first.
Few years ago at a dyno day, a new comer to our group strapped down his S4 and made about 200rwhp.
That's not a typo.
He had no idea the car was that down on power, he did complain it wasn't running perfect......we were all stunned. Now if he installed performance ships, I guarantee you the car would feel faster.
Also, buying "performance chips" is so 1990. With the Shark Tuner at our disposal, find a competent tuner, find a Shark Tuner to use and have your own set of custom chips tailor made for your car.
Yes it will cost more, but it's the proper way to do it.
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Snizinskas (09-27-2023)
#17
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Does the Sharktuner have some way to detect knock, if you have a car with no sensor? If not, I am not sure how that fixes the problem with a semi-generic chip?
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Well, I have an 86.5 and bought Porken's chip set. I followed his advice and went with an 87 FP regulator, 24lb injectors, x-pipe with no cats and an RMB, I haven't had the car on a dyno but I could definitely feel the difference in the seat of my pants. Also in the burning rubber from the rear wheels and this is an automatic.
Just speaking of my own experience. Like mentioned before, every engine is different and your results may be completely different.
Just speaking of my own experience. Like mentioned before, every engine is different and your results may be completely different.
#19
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I've got a customers son who swears that these chips have allowed him to drive his dads car over 200 mph, that the extra red line allows this. It's an '87 5-speed that is completely stock. I would have just chuckled but the kid is 30 and has told me this numerous times.
About the only response I can give is "that's really impressive" and they won't allow me to put stock chips back in even though they are getting about 14 miles per gallon due to how rich it runs.
About the only response I can give is "that's really impressive" and they won't allow me to put stock chips back in even though they are getting about 14 miles per gallon due to how rich it runs.
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Sean: your three emails somehow blew up to 46 emails, multiple repeats of each email. I've answered the questions about the amp placement (that's fine) and the cargo net (I don't know, PO had it). Thanks for the heads up!
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Let’s say a novice wanted to tune his vehicle using the Sharktuner, what would be the process? Do you look for a local shop that has the software? Do you purchase the software, install it on a laptop, and give the laptop and the car to a tuner? What would a tuner usually charge?
#26
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The whole point of the sharktuner is to be friendly enough and idiotproof enough to be able to DIY, +/- some help from folks here on the board.
If I had a stock S4, I'd buy a sharktuner 2, a pair of PEMs, and an Innovate LC-2 wide-band O2 sensor (or an MTX-L, if you want to mount an air-fuel ratio (AFR) gauge somewhere in the car....)
http://siriuscyber.net/sharktuner/
(The innovate can be found many places, most directly from Innovate themselves)
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTS.php
When the LC-2 arrives, I'd go to the local muffler shop and pay $10-20 for them to poke a hole in one of the downpipes of the cat, and weld in the bung that comes with the wide-band sensor. That way you can install and remove the wideband as needed without having to touch the factory narrowband sensor.
Here's the WBO2 and its 'extra' bung semi-permanently mounted on my GTS:
Then you need a laptop to run the sharktuner software, as well as the sharkplotter software that you'll use to modify your fuel and timing maps.
Basically, the sharktuner is just an interface between the car's brains and your laptop, that allows you to collect data on MAF load, injector duty cycle, rpm, and air fuel ratio. Sharkplotter then allows you to take that data, and modify the fuel and timing map based on whether your AFR at a given MAF load and rpm point is ok, rich, or lean. Then you take Sharkplotter's output, and paste it back into the map screen in sharktuner, which rewrites the fuel map in the PEMs you'd inserted into the 928's brains. Datalog, lather, repeat.
If I had a stock S4, I'd buy a sharktuner 2, a pair of PEMs, and an Innovate LC-2 wide-band O2 sensor (or an MTX-L, if you want to mount an air-fuel ratio (AFR) gauge somewhere in the car....)
http://siriuscyber.net/sharktuner/
(The innovate can be found many places, most directly from Innovate themselves)
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTS.php
When the LC-2 arrives, I'd go to the local muffler shop and pay $10-20 for them to poke a hole in one of the downpipes of the cat, and weld in the bung that comes with the wide-band sensor. That way you can install and remove the wideband as needed without having to touch the factory narrowband sensor.
Here's the WBO2 and its 'extra' bung semi-permanently mounted on my GTS:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Routing%20of%20WB02%20and%20zipties%204-21-10.jpg)
Then you need a laptop to run the sharktuner software, as well as the sharkplotter software that you'll use to modify your fuel and timing maps.
Basically, the sharktuner is just an interface between the car's brains and your laptop, that allows you to collect data on MAF load, injector duty cycle, rpm, and air fuel ratio. Sharkplotter then allows you to take that data, and modify the fuel and timing map based on whether your AFR at a given MAF load and rpm point is ok, rich, or lean. Then you take Sharkplotter's output, and paste it back into the map screen in sharktuner, which rewrites the fuel map in the PEMs you'd inserted into the 928's brains. Datalog, lather, repeat.
#27
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The earlier engines don't have knock sensors and no provision for auto-retard. One option is to fit something like a Knoklite, basically a knock-sensor and a warning light (no retard and no connection to the EZF). I believe that is what Ken used to establish the timing for his S300 chips, for his engine. If your engine is just like his then you are good to go. But if it were me, I would install a knock-lite just to be sure, as well as a wideband-O2 to monitor AFR.
You can also use a knok-lite with Sharktuner and do your own maps, but it is not as easy as tuning a 87+ engine. It requires a different model Sharktuner which connects to the LH2.2 or EZK (one at a time) via a ribbon cable (no diagnostic connector on those).
And a good tuner can tell when an engine is starting to detonate, if you go that route.
Cheers, Jim
#28
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The "Knocklite" is NLA. "Knocklink G4" is the current equivalent. ($235 is the lowest I've seen.)
S3 (and earlier) have space for one knock sensor at the front. Requires a S4 oil valley plug from a bad block (or have one made - there is no Porsche part number for it).
S3 (and earlier) have space for one knock sensor at the front. Requires a S4 oil valley plug from a bad block (or have one made - there is no Porsche part number for it).
![](https://members.rennlist.com/porken/86_5_KnockSensor2.jpg)
#29
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FWIW, YGWYPF, here is a code patch I wrote for installing a LED knock light, S4-up (or you can send me your BIN and I can patch it for you).
With the stock code, the output to the diagnostic plug is too short to see (or log with a A/D logging box, EG. Innovate).
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ock-light.html
The S4.S300s chipset incorporates this mod, plus the light stays on if there is a knock or hall sensor error.
With the stock code, the output to the diagnostic plug is too short to see (or log with a A/D logging box, EG. Innovate).
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ock-light.html
The S4.S300s chipset incorporates this mod, plus the light stays on if there is a knock or hall sensor error.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#30
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FWIW, YGWYPF, here is a code patch I wrote for installing a LED knock light, S4-up (or you can send me your BIN and I can patch it for you).
With the stock code, the output to the diagnostic plug is too short to see (or log with a A/D logging box, EG. Innovate).
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ock-light.html
The S4.S300s chipset incorporates this mod, plus the light stays on if there is a knock or hall sensor error.![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
With the stock code, the output to the diagnostic plug is too short to see (or log with a A/D logging box, EG. Innovate).
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ock-light.html
The S4.S300s chipset incorporates this mod, plus the light stays on if there is a knock or hall sensor error.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Wasn't sure since the link said 88 and up.
Thx