linderpat

that is great news! Did you have to drill any out and fix holes?

Chalkboss

No, thankfully. I was able to use jam nuts to get 5 out, then a stud removal socket for 4, and finally the last one which had a nubbin of threads left I had a co-worker/ expert welder TIG weld a nut on and it came right off.

WHEW!!! Glad I work around a bunch of machinists.

Mrmerlin

when you refit the water pump bolts ,I suggest to
use fresh bolts, and use a dab of PTFE loctite thread sealant on the bolt

linderpat

Stan, I don't think he has a choice anymore

Chalkboss

I thought that was funny too. Dear lord those wp bolt vestigal remnants were ugly. I am replacing many bolts on this job, as well as everything that is worn or looks ugly to me. I found the wiring harness had a bare spot where wire was showing, so this and many fine details attended to. Deoxyit all electrical connections to and the cleaning has been ongoing for many hours.
Put a new crank seal, coolant resevoir, ebc front brake pads, charcoal canister y connector, new fender well liners on pass side, ps return lines, etc.

Mrmerlin

I like to toss these lil tidbits out there ,
NOTE many others will read this thread,.

I have found many times old bolts reused on water pumps,
so the obvious isnt really as obvious as you might like to think it is.

Obviously you wont use a bolt thats snapped off ,BUT, the temptation to stick that bolt back into the hole is large when the supply store is closed

MainePorsche

+1 Stan.
Quality hardware is crucial. When I'm planning ahead for a big job, and hardware replacement is being done, I order the bolts before the dissection and work.
I have a Fastenal shop 5 mins from home. They can get not only 'a bolt' but you can order and specify bolt material, strength grade, and special plating if required. They do have quality material.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/home

yardpro

with the low torque on the wterpump, i dont see the reasoning behind new bolts every time...
as long as the bolts ae not corroded, deformed, etc.. there is no reason that they cannot be reused.

head bolts that are designed to stretch, etc... canot be reused.

people can cause more problems if they are trying to replace the bolts and cannot find the proper ones... ie.. a tad too short and there is not enough bite and the female threads strip when torquing..

a tad to long and the block/case/ etc cracksfromthe fastner bottoming out when torquing, or at the least, not getting a seal as the bold is bottomed out before it applies adequate pressure to the part eing secured.

lastly is the use of a threaded bolt when you need a shoulder bolt....

i have seen all these issues many times when i was working on dirt bikes as a side business..(problems were caused by others, not me).


just my 2 cents.

upstate bob

I wouldn't use RTV anyplace on a car. The spray copper stuff is good on antique car head gaskets though,
the old sandwich types. Now manufacturers are subbing sealants for gaskets in a lot of spots. Just changed a waterpump on my DD suzuki (beast of a job) and noted the same. -not me, I used a real gasket.

linderpat

Good points Steven, but I am going to completely disagree with you. The problem at the water pump is the corrosion factor. Too many times these bolts simply get corroded. Also, they are frequently over torqued and stuck in the hole. Bolts are cheap, and it is easy to get the right ones from the guys that you get the water pump from, so that you have them at the same time that you get the water pump (I would only deal with our reputable 928 specific vendors for a water pump, and they have the hardware).

yardpro

we both agree....

i would also replace any corroded or damaged bolts.

pretty easy to tell of the threads have been damaged from over torquing.

i have no issue with replacing them, just the idea that you are not doing it right if you dont.