Do you know this sound
#2
Team Owner
could be the idler roller behind the damper,
is the Timing belt loose?
Otherwise remove one belt at a time and you will find the source , if its an accessory
it also sounds like a air pump or loose fan shaft bearings
is the Timing belt loose?
Otherwise remove one belt at a time and you will find the source , if its an accessory
it also sounds like a air pump or loose fan shaft bearings
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
When the balance 'fails', the first thing youll notice is that the timing marks no longer index correctly with the crank throws. You can grab the ring and wiggle it.
The ring is held captive by a flange on the drive hub so it won't come off forward. Actual damping is rotational, to kill off otherwise-fatal ringing/harmonics in the crank from the unevenly-distributed firing pulses along its length. If the rubber between the ring and the drive hub fails (and that's really the only available failure) the ring will be loose enough to rotate. Hence the timing mark diagnosis. Most real failures are from folks hammering or prying on the ring during TB changes. Rarely, one is oil-soaked enough to come apart just from rubber rot.
The ring is held captive by a flange on the drive hub so it won't come off forward. Actual damping is rotational, to kill off otherwise-fatal ringing/harmonics in the crank from the unevenly-distributed firing pulses along its length. If the rubber between the ring and the drive hub fails (and that's really the only available failure) the ring will be loose enough to rotate. Hence the timing mark diagnosis. Most real failures are from folks hammering or prying on the ring during TB changes. Rarely, one is oil-soaked enough to come apart just from rubber rot.
#5
Team Owner
Nice response Dr Bob.
for the OP follow Dr Bobs suggestion for a timing check,
Then remove one belt at a time then test.
for the OP follow Dr Bobs suggestion for a timing check,
Then remove one belt at a time then test.