running hot
06-21-2014, 08:48 PM
#31
Team Owner
Ed I would then try fitting another thermostat.
NOTE the front fan wont be an issue until the coolant is at the higher temperature ,
and thus closing the lower radiator cooling switch,
located on the front driver side lower area of the radiator,
through the grill you can test the fan by touching these two switch wires together.
FWIW the 928 cooling system is self bleeding.
To fill it ,
open the heater control temperature controller full hot,
add about 4 gallons of coolant this may take a while as the system will bleed off the air. (note engine off)
Once your at close to 4 gallons installed start the engine.
Let the system come up to temperature coolant cap off.
Once the fans come on or if no elex fan after the thermostat opens, install the cap.
NOTE coolant bottle should be filled just over halfway.
take the car for a drive about 5 miles, this will fill and purge the air from the heater core.
park the car shut off the engine let the car cool off .
Once the car is cool then remove the cap and top up as necessary,
coolant level cold should be just over the seam in the bottle
NOTE the front fan wont be an issue until the coolant is at the higher temperature ,
and thus closing the lower radiator cooling switch,
located on the front driver side lower area of the radiator,
through the grill you can test the fan by touching these two switch wires together.
FWIW the 928 cooling system is self bleeding.
To fill it ,
open the heater control temperature controller full hot,
add about 4 gallons of coolant this may take a while as the system will bleed off the air. (note engine off)
Once your at close to 4 gallons installed start the engine.
Let the system come up to temperature coolant cap off.
Once the fans come on or if no elex fan after the thermostat opens, install the cap.
NOTE coolant bottle should be filled just over halfway.
take the car for a drive about 5 miles, this will fill and purge the air from the heater core.
park the car shut off the engine let the car cool off .
Once the car is cool then remove the cap and top up as necessary,
coolant level cold should be just over the seam in the bottle
06-21-2014, 08:50 PM
#32
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
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Ed, when you get a chance, redo that last hot-load test please. Stan points out that the temp returning from the radiator has to be less than coolant the engine is sending to the radiator. Having a higher return te,mp suggests that the radiator is actually adding heat rather then sharing it with the surrounding air.
06-21-2014, 09:56 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'll retest tomorrow. Stan, that is how I filled it as well. Never had a problem with it before.
06-22-2014, 12:11 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
ok, different tool - using my multi meter with temp probe, drove the car this morning. Ambient - cool, high 60s. Car at operating temp, needle at just above middle, towards 2d white line, but not there.
Data - measured at the water bridge outlet to upper hose (probe held to the metal just above the hose) 180.2F; measured at the bend off the water bridge, for the lower hose reading 170F.
The probe seems alot more accurate to me. The IR gun is probably picking up other stuff and reading hotter.
I will continue to monitor.
Data - measured at the water bridge outlet to upper hose (probe held to the metal just above the hose) 180.2F; measured at the bend off the water bridge, for the lower hose reading 170F.
The probe seems alot more accurate to me. The IR gun is probably picking up other stuff and reading hotter.
I will continue to monitor.
06-22-2014, 07:11 PM
#35
Team Owner
those temp readings are more in line with what I would expect to see
