Replacing ignition switch advice
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 914
Likes: 3
From: Calgary Canada
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 914
Likes: 3
From: Calgary Canada
I am going to do a search on pod removal. I found one a couple years ago when I did the actuators. Can't remember who wrote it but it was quite good. If anyone has it handy....tia!
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 30
From: Wine Country, CA
It also helps to have a really short screwdriver with about a 1/4" wide tip. The switch is held in with two slotted screws that screw in from the back and they can be a real pain to get to.
I ended up cutting most of the handle off of one of those Harbor Fright freebies so that it is about 2 1/2" long.
James
I ended up cutting most of the handle off of one of those Harbor Fright freebies so that it is about 2 1/2" long.
James
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 914
Likes: 3
From: Calgary Canada
It also helps to have a really short screwdriver with about a 1/4" wide tip. The switch is held in with two slotted screws that screw in from the back and they can be a real pain to get to.
I ended up cutting most of the handle off of one of those Harbor Fright freebies so that it is about 2 1/2" long.
James
I ended up cutting most of the handle off of one of those Harbor Fright freebies so that it is about 2 1/2" long.
James
I might give it a try. I would like to get the new switch in ASAP. I will have to remove the pod later for a different project but I don't have the parts ready yet.
So 2 slotted screws. Short screwdriver. Probably have to lay out under the dash to reach them?
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Bend, Oregon
Remove the pod bolts but just raise the pod in place and prop it up. No need to disconnect any pod wiring this way. A stubby screwdriver worked for me. A 90 degree ratcheting screwdriver might be easier. IMHO
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 914
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From: Calgary Canada
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 30
From: Wine Country, CA
The difficult part is that you can't see the slots in the screws so you have to do it by feel - and since your going in from the back - turning is the opposite of what your used to.
James
James
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Australia
My question is, are you sure you need to replace it ? I did mine a year or two back because it seemed to be the cause of failures to crank. It actually ran a lot better after the change, so it was worth it. Then it failed to crank again - it was the starter relay all the time....Along the way I cleaned up several contacts on the instrument panel contacts, notably the earths, and now the gauges are more stable.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
Pro
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 678
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From: Indianapolis, In
The 2 screws are the worst part of the project. I disconected the pod just enough to be able to move it around. A ratchetting 90 screw driver would have been nice. Once you brake the screw free I found it easier to spin it out with my finger and also replace it the same way.