jej3

Hi All,

Well, I was a bit surprised to find out I sold all of my "extra" rear belly pans to Herman last year (thought I had three) and I am very much in need of one to restore the belly pans under my car.

I am hopeful this helps reduce operating temps because below is what I faced on the way back from SITM (it actually went a bit higher than this)....



PM me if you have one you are willing to sell.

Thanks!

Kevin in Atlanta

I have one - drop me an email to the address below.

Adamant1971

Did you check the temp with an IR gun? It's good have a baseline for your wonder gauge.

I don't think the rear pan will have an effect. The front pan yes due to the motor mount vents.

Mine got pretty hot in uphill sections.

Kevin in Atlanta

I do agree that a rear belly pan is not a likely solution.

The oil pressure is lower than I would expect, which supports the temp reading. Normally, it should be twice the RPMs. On my 87 with 140k~ miles at 2600 RPMs I run at 4.5 to 5 bars. My GTS ran even better than that. Outside temp 84. I assume you were using the AC, too. That can add to the heat load.

Not knowing the service history of you car, I would recommend a look at the thermostat housing seal. They do wear out and contribute to warmer engine readings. My 87 has a lower temp thermostat and my car never gets above an 1/8 of an inch above the first bar. Too cool for my liking. Also look to see if there is any leaf debris blocking the cooling fins.

SeanR

^^ that's a good post.

Find out what the actual temps are and I sure hope you are using 15w-50 or 20w-50.
Check to ensure the fans are working as they should etc.

jej3

Thanks everyone....

- Mobil1 15W50 with Rislone ZDDP additive is in use
- I am missing front/rear belly pans and would like to add both
- Fans are in working order (see my thread on the final output stage)
- I am contemplating adding a 15 inch pusher in front of the condenser (as I feel this is necessary when AC is on)
- Outside Temp is 5-7 degrees F low so it was more like 93F in Columbia, SC where this photo was taken
- Considering switching over to Water Wetter and my current mix of Prestone/Distilled Water

I will definitely get a more accurate temp reading (top hose/bottom hose????)

I am likely going to:

- Procure a used Rear Belly Pan
- A New 928 INTL Front Belly pan
- A New Lower Temperature Thermostat and Housing gasket
- Drain Coolant and Switch to Water Wetter plus Prestone/Distilled Water
- Procure SPAL 15 Inch Pusher Fan for Install in front of Condenser after testing the above against a baseline temperature reading

jej3

Email sent.

SeanR

Don't bother with the water wetter, it will just leave black gunk in your cooling system and then there will be another thread asking if you have a head gasket problem. As Kevin said, make sure your rear thermostat seal is in good shape, the rubber on these deteriorates leaving the metal ring and then you have a compromised coolant system.

When checking the engine coolant temperatures, use the IR gun on the top of the water bridge/T-stat, this is where the cluster gauge gets its information.

You won't be able to put a 15" Spal on there unless you move the trans cooler someplace. You can fit a pair of smaller ones with some work though.

jej3

Thanks, Sean.

I plan on fitting a 15" SPAL fan similar to how the Senninger Bros. did on there Supercharged S4 @ SITM.

Note the front louvers and motor need to come off but the end result was a very secure mounting tied off to the the two support brackets.

MainePorsche

++ to the thermostat seal.
I note you use Prestone/distilled water. Isn't the current recommendation here to use Zerex G05 as the coolant of choice for our engines.

andy-gts

or the porsche coolant from the dealership

SeanR

Nice, you have now changed my mind

DKWalser

Do you remove the stock puller fans from behind the radiator, or is this fan in addition to them?

jej3

On the car pictured, the owner had four fans as Pullers behind the radiator and the one pusher in front of the radiator.

I am planning to have the pusher in addition to my stock puller fans. Of course, my order of improvement is...

1. Measure Temps with IR Gun (need IR Gun)
2. Install Belly Pans (need Belly Pans)
3. Measure Temps against baseline
4. Flush Coolant (it's been 2-3 years)
5. Possibly pull and flush radiator @ same time
6. Definitely replace Thermostat with 75C and replace seals.
7. Measure Temps against baseline
8. If cooling is still not exactly what I want OR AC is not as cold as I want, install pusher fan.

My problem is a chronic case of WYAIT tasks. I'd like to replace the Oil Cooler lines and there's the Power steering, and OPG, and Motor Mounts and AC lines and ... and ...

jej3

I think there is a hardline running across the bottom under the fan. They wrapped it with a rubber hose split in two. The wrapped hose acted as an anchor and in their words "Kept the fan from walking on the hard line".

I don't think the Senningers are on RL but they had a seriously bad a$$ car @ SITM.

Pre-Oiler to keep the engine from never starting dry, loads of cooling capacity, wicked looking engine bay and because they aren't RL folks, I believe they figured out alot of the performance bits based on their own knowledge.