Steering rack torque specs!!
#3
#4
It's all in the tech-spec books, on the Morehouse CD's from Roger. From the S4-GT-GTS book:
The M10 rack-mounting bolts are torqued to 34 ft-lb,
M16 tie-rod to rack is 111 ft-lbs (blue loctite is a good idea here),
M8 for the u-joint to rack steering shaft is 21 ft-lb,
M14 Banjo fittings are 22 ft-lb (new copper rings are required).
Happy wrenching!
The M10 rack-mounting bolts are torqued to 34 ft-lb,
M16 tie-rod to rack is 111 ft-lbs (blue loctite is a good idea here),
M8 for the u-joint to rack steering shaft is 21 ft-lb,
M14 Banjo fittings are 22 ft-lb (new copper rings are required).
Happy wrenching!
#5
#6
It's all in the tech-spec books, on the Morehouse CD's from Roger. From the S4-GT-GTS book:
The M10 rack-mounting bolts are torqued to 34 ft-lb,
M16 tie-rod to rack is 111 ft-lbs (blue loctite is a good idea here),
M8 for the u-joint to rack steering shaft is 21 ft-lb,
M14 Banjo fittings are 22 ft-lb (new copper rings are required).
Happy wrenching!
The M10 rack-mounting bolts are torqued to 34 ft-lb,
M16 tie-rod to rack is 111 ft-lbs (blue loctite is a good idea here),
M8 for the u-joint to rack steering shaft is 21 ft-lb,
M14 Banjo fittings are 22 ft-lb (new copper rings are required).
Happy wrenching!
I do have a copy of that CD but had to pack nearly everything we own into a storage unit after the some nasty flooding last June so we could rebuild. I haven't been able to find the box with a bunch of my 928 resource material yet!
#7
Okay ready to instal via Dwayne's write up for motor mounts. (I did that job 4 or 5 years ago.)
I removed the steering rack for rebuild just over a year ago and then was evacuated from our home due to a flooding and the river flowing through our house. Ironically, the car was on jack stands and was saved from the water.
My question is with respect to the steering knuckle u-joint as I can not find my marks to realign with the steering wheel. Do I just get everything close by eye or is there a trick to installing back to close to normal before aligning.
Also, I need to spread the u-joint a bit to slide back on to the splines without damaging. What do you recommend to use?
I removed the steering rack for rebuild just over a year ago and then was evacuated from our home due to a flooding and the river flowing through our house. Ironically, the car was on jack stands and was saved from the water.
My question is with respect to the steering knuckle u-joint as I can not find my marks to realign with the steering wheel. Do I just get everything close by eye or is there a trick to installing back to close to normal before aligning.
Also, I need to spread the u-joint a bit to slide back on to the splines without damaging. What do you recommend to use?
Last edited by Calgary Ole; 06-14-2014 at 01:00 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
#12
I have done this job twice. Both times the knuckle slid on the splines pretty easily. For alignment there are the flat surfaces where the bolt goes through. If I recall correctly you can only get the bolt in if the flat spot is aligned properly. You can be one or two splines off but no more than that or the bolt will not fit. HTH.
#13
That would be great! I'm going to spend some time today working on this job. I have a couple ideas I'm going to try first. I'll let you know.
#14
I have done this job twice. Both times the knuckle slid on the splines pretty easily. For alignment there are the flat surfaces where the bolt goes through. If I recall correctly you can only get the bolt in if the flat spot is aligned properly. You can be one or two splines off but no more than that or the bolt will not fit. HTH.
Thanks!
#15
I have done this job twice. Both times the knuckle slid on the splines pretty easily. For alignment there are the flat surfaces where the bolt goes through. If I recall correctly you can only get the bolt in if the flat spot is aligned properly. You can be one or two splines off but no more than that or the bolt will not fit. HTH.