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Bizarre oil pump problem

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Old 06-11-2014, 03:25 AM
  #31  
Ducman82
 
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Very odd.... It burst? Shot oil out? Any pictures?
Old 06-11-2014, 09:59 AM
  #32  
GlenL
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Is it possible that the oil is not leaking from the radial seal?
Leaks can be tricky to definitively locate. O-ring or seal?

Is the o-ring new?

What does the seal look like after removal?

repeating, repeating... Later oil pumps won't work with older blocks. There's a mid-'82 switch over. The oil will just squirt out the seal.
Old 06-11-2014, 10:34 AM
  #33  
rlich8
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I'll get a pic today.

As I have said, new, proper o rings on the pump and bolts. It's definitely the front seal. It is almost as if the seal cannot withstand the pressure.
Old 06-11-2014, 11:01 AM
  #34  
Leon Speed
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Don't know much about these pumps, but there is a oil drain passage in the pump housing close to where the seal sits. Is it blocked maybe? Is the seal pushed to far in so that it partly covers the drain hole?



Is the seal Victor Reinz?

Btw I the seal should be installed dry on the outside and only lubed on the inside.
Old 06-11-2014, 11:39 AM
  #35  
rlich8
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The seals have been installed flush with the lip of the pump.

And yes, they literally burst! It is almost as if the seal cannot withstand the amount of pressure the pump is creating!

I'll get a picture later once I get back to the car.
Old 06-11-2014, 11:44 AM
  #36  
rlich8
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Yes, the seals I have been using are victor reinz. 20x30x7mm. Clay in color.

Also, the pump is the correct one. I never had any issue with this before I did the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner rebuild.
Old 06-11-2014, 12:05 PM
  #37  
Bilal928S4
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Wasn't there a direction which the impeller needs to be installed? I recall the dot on the impeller should be facing the block?? Maybe check the orientation of the impeller.
Old 06-11-2014, 12:49 PM
  #38  
69gaugeman
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Originally Posted by Lizard928
As well, I would be using much higher than 600 grit paper. I would be polishing with around a 1000 grit with oil the ensure it is a perfectly smooth polish.
It has actually been shown that too smooth of a surface will cause the seal to wear out quickly. The 600 grit should be fine. But the angle of the grain of the finish actually affects it as well. There needs to be a film of oil between the rubber and the steel shaft. The surface finish actually allows some oil to get under the seal.

If the seal is bursting, it would seem this is not the issue anyway.

Originally Posted by Bilal928S4
Wasn't there a direction which the impeller needs to be installed? I recall the dot on the impeller should be facing the block?? Maybe check the orientation of the impeller.
My experience has been the pump will self destruct if you assemble the ring backwards.
Old 06-11-2014, 12:58 PM
  #39  
rlich8
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We'll be checking the oil pressure relief springs and plungers today. It is my suspicion that this is causing the issue. I should have some photos later this afternoon, too.
Old 06-12-2014, 07:11 PM
  #40  
rlich8
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Pressure relief springs are fine.

The pump is shot. No need to post pictures, but I took it to a friend of mine who runs a machine shop and sure enough the shaft is crooked just a tick and that is what is causing the seals to be eaten up/blown in just a minute or two. When my timing belt broke, it must have torqued the gear and thus the shaft as well...there were several pieces of timing belt in the vicinity of the oil pump.

Gents and ladies, please change your rollers, your water pump, and anything worn that is in the belt run...and properly tension your timing belt... it'll destroy many parts if you do not...
Old 06-12-2014, 07:43 PM
  #41  
Randy V
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Looks like Ducman is the winner!
Old 06-13-2014, 12:18 AM
  #42  
Mrmerlin
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after rereading post 20, it would have been a good idea to post pictures of the damage that you observed,
I have seen where a pump was damaged by a belt run that was too tight,
thus the shaft had excessive play in its bore without the radial seal installed.
A new pump was installed.

For now I would also caution you that the driverside cam snout may also be damaged,
when a belt snaps this is one of the weakest parts of the belt run.
Finding flat spots on rotating parts indicated that they were seizing.
Remove the driver side cam pulley bolt and pulley, and inspect the snout for cracks.
Retorque to spec.

Also the tensioner pivot arm bolt will be bent.
A new bolt and bushes should be fitted
Old 06-13-2014, 01:13 PM
  #43  
rlich8
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Fortunately my cams are fine. Roger from 928rus gave me a heads up about the weak cam issue. That pivot bolt and bushes were also replaced.

I've ordered a new pump and yet another seal and o-rings...

I'll report back soon...
Old 06-13-2014, 01:28 PM
  #44  
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Wooooo! I'm a winner! :-) now let's see that sucker! Glad you have new parts on the way
Old 06-16-2014, 07:14 PM
  #45  
rlich8
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Ducman82 is in fact the winner.

Received my pump today from 928inl, installed it with another new set of o-rings and a new seal, and it runs great with no leaks now. Wasn't seal installation, wasn't incorrect seal or old o-rings, direction in block, etc... there was some sort of flaw in the pump shaft that was causing it to excessively leak.

This is definitely a bizarre problem. One of for the books...at least my own books. I've had a broken oil pump before, but never one with a bent shaft that produced pressure and was entirely functional with a leak.

Odd.

Thanks for all the help along the way though.



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