Stuck, need help with rear coupler
#16
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dont fear, a bit O heat and she will slide right off
#17
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I used a small pry bar just behind the coupler and pressure against the trans case. Did not take much pressure in my case, it "popped" and slid free.
#18
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Well thanks for the help guys, I'm going to take a look at it tomorrow, try some things and I'll let you know how it goes.
As long as it's not raining lol I'm working on it in a field
As long as it's not raining lol I'm working on it in a field
#19
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Uh... Um ... Yeah... Uh... dont trust those cinder blocks,
I do see the jack stands.
A set of car ramps would be much safer.
Looks like a very good looking car
I do see the jack stands.
A set of car ramps would be much safer.
Looks like a very good looking car
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Lol thanks, apart from a bare patch of metal on the roof the paints really good, the interiors not to shabby either! Here's some more pics just for the fun of it lol
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In the second pic of the coupler does that look like green loctite? There's something there that shouldn't be, I'm pretty sure that's what's keeping it on the shaft
#22
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OH... the pictures show the jackstands under the rocker panels.
NOTE if the car should crush the cinder block, then the rocker will be damaged.
these areas are not structural.
Please use the factory jack pads on the chassis there are 4 of them.
card board is good for working on
NOTE if the car should crush the cinder block, then the rocker will be damaged.
these areas are not structural.
Please use the factory jack pads on the chassis there are 4 of them.
card board is good for working on
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The jack stands are on the pinch weld and I've had the full weight of the car on just the jack stands with no damage so I think it'll be ok. I really didn't have a choice, with the jack I used and my stands this was the highest I could get it (even had to use a few blocks of wood) and the jack stand height is either the way it is or the next height setting which is way to high. You do what you can with what you've got lol
#25
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^ I was going to suggest that as well,
BUT a cinderblock used for supporting a car that your working under simply isnt a good idea
BUT a cinderblock used for supporting a car that your working under simply isnt a good idea
#26
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I'm also a bit worried about what I see with your support of the car. It's not only what you have it supported by and the locations of the supports, but the potentially soft and unpredictable soil and grass they're on.
Maybe you could get some metal ramps with a broad support base, which are usually cheap.
Please be careful ... we don't want to wonder what happened to you.
Maybe you could get some metal ramps with a broad support base, which are usually cheap.
Please be careful ... we don't want to wonder what happened to you.
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Thanks for the concern but the cinder blocks aren't holding up the car, it's on stands on the pinch weld which is one of the strongest parts of any car besides the frame. you probably can't see it very good but the stands are on 2x4s and the weights spread out over quite a bit of ground, same concept as a snowshoe. It's not the greatest but there's nothing great about working on a car in a field.
Those cinder blocks are only holding up the rear wheels.
Those cinder blocks are only holding up the rear wheels.
#29
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Might as well add this... those type of Jack stands have been known to fail, the weld breaks on the lower strap under stress and the bottoms just flair out.
I'll use them for working on a Quad or Lawn mower but never anything heavy that I am going to get under, they are junk sir, for what you are doing Ramps would be the way to go!
Dave
I'll use them for working on a Quad or Lawn mower but never anything heavy that I am going to get under, they are junk sir, for what you are doing Ramps would be the way to go!
Dave
Last edited by davek9; 06-06-2014 at 01:07 PM.