Replacing wheel studs
#1
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Hey, I was wondering if anyone knows a way to replace the rear wheel studs without having to pull everything down to the wheel hub?
I've read that people have been able to do this on the front wheels, to tap them out with a hammer, and then tighten the new studs into place with a nut and spacer. I haven't found anything that indicates whether this is possible one way or the other for the rear wheels, and I want to know if I should even try this, or just pull everything and do it that way.
I'm installing new wheels that do away with the factory spacers on the rear, and I want to replace the 72mm studs with 50mm studs in the process. If anyone has any advice for me, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks!
I've read that people have been able to do this on the front wheels, to tap them out with a hammer, and then tighten the new studs into place with a nut and spacer. I haven't found anything that indicates whether this is possible one way or the other for the rear wheels, and I want to know if I should even try this, or just pull everything and do it that way.
I'm installing new wheels that do away with the factory spacers on the rear, and I want to replace the 72mm studs with 50mm studs in the process. If anyone has any advice for me, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks!
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What year 928? 86?
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Hi, just cut the original studs down to correct length with angle grinder but put an open nut on first to clean up threads when you remove the nut after cutting the stud. You cannot remove studs without removing the rear hub and that means new bearings too :-(
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Industry guidance used to suggest that no more than two studs coulbe be replaced on any axle flange. That couldn't apply to any of us, right? ...
There are interesting fixtures for extracting balljoints and tie rod ends that can be jury-rigged to press studs out. Probably the most important advice is to avoid hammering on the studs. The impact loading is transferred to the angular ball bearing that is cleverly disguised as the rear wheel bearing, flattening the ***** and denting the races. Remaining bearing life is then quite small. Are your rear bearings older than maybe 75k miles? Replace the rear bearings now, and have the new studs pressed into the flange while it's apart. No warpage, no other casual collateral damage.
There are interesting fixtures for extracting balljoints and tie rod ends that can be jury-rigged to press studs out. Probably the most important advice is to avoid hammering on the studs. The impact loading is transferred to the angular ball bearing that is cleverly disguised as the rear wheel bearing, flattening the ***** and denting the races. Remaining bearing life is then quite small. Are your rear bearings older than maybe 75k miles? Replace the rear bearings now, and have the new studs pressed into the flange while it's apart. No warpage, no other casual collateral damage.
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Easiest way is as Linus suggests. Just cut them. Otherwise you'll have to pull the axle. BTW I found a great source for studs. Sway A Way makes replacements. Just bought 80mm studs for $3.60 each. Very good price