Washer tank sender and fuel line questions?
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Hi all
A couple of unrelated questions.....
1: Can any one confirm that the physical look of the Washer bottle sender and the Coolant header tank sender are the same. I know electronically they work in opposite ways?
2: I am looking to fit new fuel lines on my car. These are the underneath/rear hard lines. Originally i was going to fit Cupro nickle.. but apparently they can react with Ethanol. So i have found some Nylon (probably not the correct name) semi ridgid pipework that has push fit connectors. I have seen the spec sheet for this and it is approved for this use. The tube has a slightly smaller bore than the Cupro nickle, will this be a problem??
Regards
Geoff
A couple of unrelated questions.....
1: Can any one confirm that the physical look of the Washer bottle sender and the Coolant header tank sender are the same. I know electronically they work in opposite ways?
2: I am looking to fit new fuel lines on my car. These are the underneath/rear hard lines. Originally i was going to fit Cupro nickle.. but apparently they can react with Ethanol. So i have found some Nylon (probably not the correct name) semi ridgid pipework that has push fit connectors. I have seen the spec sheet for this and it is approved for this use. The tube has a slightly smaller bore than the Cupro nickle, will this be a problem??
Regards
Geoff
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Geoff - how different in internal diameter - a couple of thou or?
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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Ok
i/d of the 'nylon' tube is 6.32mm
i/d of cupro nickle 'cunifer' 7.89mm
i/d of a fuel fitting 7.2mm
they do 12 mm if its a problem, but then i need to replace the fuel line rubber mounts under the car.
i/d of the 'nylon' tube is 6.32mm
i/d of cupro nickle 'cunifer' 7.89mm
i/d of a fuel fitting 7.2mm
they do 12 mm if its a problem, but then i need to replace the fuel line rubber mounts under the car.
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I can describe the difference flow capabilities with the smaller line (about 30%) if that makes a difference. I'm real interested in your reference to the cunifer lines reacting with ethanol. There's enough nickel in these lines that corrosion won't be an issue. What damage do you expect with ethanol?
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FWIW, I did some work on the hard lines a few years ago. Without a hoist, I found I could not install a new delivery pipe from rear to front without cutting and joining it some 10-12" back from the angle at the firewall. I have had zero issues with this method. This approach also enabled me to fit and pretighten the rubber hose off the car. As for the return hard line, its fitted to the body shell ABOVE the rear cross member, and I gave up on replacing that one. The rubber delivery hose was available, and I replaced that, but the return hose was NLA. Despite their age, and doing 10 years in Saudi, both hoses were in VGC, completely free of damage or cracking, so the old return hose is back in there. Later I went back to the hoses and sheathed them in a firesleeve hose to reduce their heat exposure, and prevent a leak from spraying on the exhaust - separated the joints over the cam case, and slid the sleeve over the hoses.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
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I can describe the difference flow capabilities with the smaller line (about 30%) if that makes a difference. I'm real interested in your reference to the cunifer lines reacting with ethanol. There's enough nickel in these lines that corrosion won't be an issue. What damage do you expect with ethanol?
Please read the attached, very interesting read as E10 is being phased in over here, especially the paragraph on high pressure fuel pumps and Section 3.8 page 21 table on materials to avoid.
http://assets.dft.gov.uk/publication...tudyreport.pdf
I did note the reference to Nickle plated steel as being compatable, but as that is a coating and not combined with the base material does that make a difference?
Regards
Geoff
Last edited by Maybach_Man; 06-01-2014 at 02:36 AM. Reason: Additional comment
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FWIW, I did some work on the hard lines a few years ago. Without a hoist, I found I could not install a new delivery pipe from rear to front without cutting and joining it some 10-12" back from the angle at the firewall. I have had zero issues with this method. This approach also enabled me to fit and pretighten the rubber hose off the car. As for the return hard line, its fitted to the body shell ABOVE the rear cross member, and I gave up on replacing that one. The rubber delivery hose was available, and I replaced that, but the return hose was NLA. Despite their age, and doing 10 years in Saudi, both hoses were in VGC, completely free of damage or cracking, so the old return hose is back in there. Later I went back to the hoses and sheathed them in a firesleeve hose to reduce their heat exposure, and prevent a leak from spraying on the exhaust - separated the joints over the cam case, and slid the sleeve over the hoses.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
Currently the underside of the car is bare (no suspension drive train etc)
Thanks
Geoff