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Canadian Tire Turned my brake rotors and....

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Old 05-20-2014, 06:08 PM
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Adamant1971
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Default Canadian Tire Turned my brake rotors and....

This is a quote from the service manager response.

"The rotors machined with a true face, giving neither of the technicians any reason to condemn the rotors as not machine able." T. Ford, Service Manager

How straight do these look to you?

Apparently they don't inspect their work or care to. Perhaps the rotors were bad to begin with, perhaps they messed them up. But either way they swear they are straight and won't even look at them. How they could do all 4 and not stop after one or two and call me is mind boggling. $$$$ before safety.

WTF

Edit:
It's just hard to understand the lack of ownership for the quality of work. I have been very successful in my business for the simple fact that I own my ****, good or bad I own it and it just burns me when people don't.

Last edited by Adamant1971; 05-20-2014 at 11:32 PM.
Old 05-20-2014, 06:24 PM
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dr bob
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Use a dial indicator to check the axial runout, and a micrometer in a few places to make sure the two faces are parallel. The resurfacing removes meal only from the faces, while the video of the rotor looks like the rotor may not be centered on the hub (or maybe the whole in the rotor). That would be radial runout, and that isn't caused by any mistakes in the process that machines the friction surfaces.

The rotors are centered on the hub faces at the center hole. If there's distortion, debris, comtamination, dirt, whatever in that area or on the face of the hub, it can cause runout of the rotor. Regardless, you'll see it clearly on a dial indicator.
Old 05-20-2014, 07:11 PM
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hacker-pschorr
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I've never had a set of rotors turned and I never plan to.

I agree with Van:

https://rennlist.com/forums/6861656-post24.html

Originally Posted by Van
I don't understand why people turn rotors in the first place... They're either close to the min thickness and deserve to be replaced, or they don't really need to be turned - it's just a way for a shop to charge you a little extra. (And, usually, since fixturing the rotors onto a lathe is a secondary operation (secondary to both the original machining process and to your "on-car lathe" - as Marlon points out) there will be an inherent alignment problem that will cause the "turned" rotor to be non-concentric and have more run-out than before.

Way back in the day, when rotors were quite narrow (and usually solid) they could warp - so turning them was useful in reducing that warp. But, in today's modern rotors (and especially well-designed high-performance ones), I feel it's a waste of good time and good money.
Old 05-20-2014, 07:18 PM
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Jherriott
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I can see that the discs are warped, you can't machine a warp out of a disc. Well, if you did, you would really be throwing the balance out of whack for sure!

I would say you can machine some grooves or uneven polish out of a disc only. But, if you know you have warped discs, always go to new discs IMO...
Old 05-20-2014, 07:27 PM
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paul29
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Adamant1971: To prove your point first clean the hub face on your car then clean both rotor hub faces of rust, paint and/or dirt inside and out on the rotor you have in the video, now reattach the rotor to your car with lug nuts and washers if necessary for spacers and tighten the rotor to the hub and check again. I'm sure you will see the same result ie the axel hub face and the rotor hub face are now turning in one plane and the rotor brake pad faces are in another. This will verify the rotor was not on the brake lathe properly. Now you can take this cleaned rotor to CTC and have them mount it on their lathe ( which has now has the mounting points cleaned, right?). The rotor should turn on the lathe the same as in your video. It's obvious this rotor is toast, you should check the other three. Compensation >you should at least get your money back and possibly half the new cost on this one and any others that were ruined.
Old 05-20-2014, 07:53 PM
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Adamant1971
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Originally Posted by paul29
Adamant1971: To prove your point first clean the hub face on your car then clean both rotor hub faces of rust, paint and/or dirt inside and out on the rotor you have in the video, now reattach the rotor to your car with lug nuts and washers if necessary for spacers and tighten the rotor to the hub and check again. I'm sure you will see the same result ie the axel hub face and the rotor hub face are now turning in one plane and the rotor brake pad faces are in another. This will verify the rotor was not on the brake lathe properly. Now you can take this cleaned rotor to CTC and have them mount it on their lathe ( which has now has the mounting points cleaned, right?). The rotor should turn on the lathe the same as in your video. It's obvious this rotor is toast, you should check the other three. Compensation >you should at least get your money back and possibly half the new cost on this one and any others that were ruined.
Good advice, thank you.
Old 05-20-2014, 11:06 PM
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17prospective buyer
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Canadian Tire really could care less about Joe Blow showing up with 4 rotors needing to be turned. Not trying to be a dick, but it's the way it is. Take it on the chin. Find a good independent, even some dealers have good people in them. We used to turn drums and rotors ALL the time at London City Chrysler. They're just warped. If you can see it, you don't need a dial indicator. No amount of crap on the hub mating surfact or rotor will cause that kind of visually noticeable runout.

As far as machining rotors goes. I don't see a problem on these old school Porsche rotors, they're pretty damn beefy. But if they're warped like it was said, you can't take metal off to correct warping, it's just too extreme. Really the only practical use nowadays for machining rotors is to remove bad wear patterns (wear ridge, grooves) from previously dry and dragging calipers (which doesn't happen much on fixed calipers anyways).
Old 05-20-2014, 11:29 PM
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the flyin' scotsman
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that's too bad but it looks like theyre done

Personally Im nervous with Porsche people looking at my car for the small amount of projects I don't tackle myself and would never trust Canadian Tire with anything IMHO
Old 05-20-2014, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
I've never had a set of rotors turned and I never plan to.
^^^ This. I tried it once, didn't work out so good.

There are two things (at least) that can happen to rotors: They get worn and funky (warped), in which case they are probably also near the minimum thickness. Recycle them.

And if you use them hard, with too-soft pads, then they can chatter from uneven pad deposits (causing alternate sticky/slippery patches) which then turns into uneven wear over time. If you catch this early then you can "burnish" the rotors by fitting aggressive pads for a short period. Then fit proper pads. StopTech has some good info on their website, click here.

And lots more good reading here: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers
Old 05-20-2014, 11:42 PM
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Adamant1971
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
that's too bad but it looks like theyre done

Personally Im nervous with Porsche people looking at my car for the small amount of projects I don't tackle myself and would never trust Canadian Tire with anything IMHO
Ya, it was just close to work and convenient during a very busy period with our clients at work. I agree with you 110% and will never again visit that department, lesson learned.

Originally Posted by jcorenman
^^^ This. I tried it once, didn't work out so good.

There are two things (at least) that can happen to rotors: They get worn and funky (warped), in which case they are probably also near the minimum thickness. Recycle them.

And if you use them hard, with too-soft pads, then they can chatter from uneven pad deposits (causing alternate sticky/slippery patches) which then turns into uneven wear over time. If you catch this early then you can "burnish" the rotors by fitting aggressive pads for a short period. Then fit proper pads. StopTech has some good info on their website, click here.

And lots more good reading here: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers
Hacker is right, and this was my first time doing it as well. All I can say is FAIL!

That's some good info about the pads, thank you. I will need to change my rear pads after SITM. I could only get metallic or organic pads for the rear. Rather than beat the rotors down with a metallic pad I went organic. When I get back from SITM I will have a matching rear set of ceramic pads for the rear to swap in.
Old 05-20-2014, 11:52 PM
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As others have suggested warped rotors can seldom be corrected by turning them. Usually there is not enough material to allow the warp to be removed...in the case of 928's there is very little material that can be removed and still meet the thickness specs (something like 2mm is the max that can be removed and meet spec)...and 2mm is not much when you think about making a cut on both sides of the rotor. I have had decent luck with cryogenic treatment of rotors, not really cheap, but they seem to not warp as I use a car and seem to last longer too.......just fyi, at the risk of starting a holy war, I don't like either slotted or drilled rotors for street use.....
Old 05-21-2014, 12:19 AM
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mickster
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Ask for your money back-that's about all you can expect. The last car I turned rotors on was an 83 Honda-fronts (rears were drums). They were designed for 1 cut.
Old 05-21-2014, 12:33 AM
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Lizard928
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I will never install a turned rotor. If it is warped, or needing to be turned, then it needs to be replaced!
Old 05-21-2014, 12:42 AM
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MainePorsche
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Originally Posted by Lizard928
...If it is warped, or needing to be turned, then it needs to be replaced!
Absolutely.
Replacement is the only choice.
Old 05-21-2014, 01:15 AM
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Nah..the rotor itself looks perfectly flat on the hub. They didnt mount it correctly into the machine.


Also, turned rotors are IMHO, not for heavy fast sports cars. Get new ones.


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