mike77

Ok I have just spent an hour or so fighting to install my new x-pipe on my S4. I just cant get the Y section to match up to the manifold. It seems like it may be a centimetre off but more likely user error. Any tips for this job?

I have tried loosely installing one side. I've tried loosely installing one bolt on one side. Pushing/pulling the thing back and forward, up and down. Just can't get it. I'm thinking I might be able to use a screw driver or something as a guide on each side to get the holes to line up then fit the two other screws. Also is there anything I can use to glue the gaskets in place? They are f*cking pissing me off

Adamant1971

Use a long thick screwdriver through the bolt holes to assist in lining it up. My S3 was a bitch, almost needed a second pair of hands.

mickster

If I recall, we put the top bolts in first for both sides, then worked the other ones into place. Which is what you are suggesting, I think.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

On my Y-pipe, the flanges were about 1/2" too wide. I took pipe inside and put a woodworking clamp on it, and gradually squeezed the two arms together until they were 1/2" narrower when unclamped. I did not use heat, but that might help as well.
Good luck,
Dave

davek9

You could also use a cargo strap, and pull the "y" together under the car, done that on one, some seem to be off a bit

nzpaul

Ratchet tie downs.

Adamant1971

Tie downs sound like a great idea, wish I had thought of that.

L_perm

Don't let it know it's winning. Talk softly to it. Beer helps get things lined up too.

mike77

I assume the ratchet tie downs would be to compress the Y together. Sounds like an idea but unfortunately mine is the opposite problem and is not wide enough. It has made me think though. I have a scissor jack that I might be able to wedge into the Y to push the ends out a bit. Might give that a crack along with screwdrivers to locate the holes.

James Bailey

Even though the Y pipes are bolted to a jig prior to welding the heat and thickness off the welds often causes the pipes to bend as they cool down. The relatively thin metal distorts easily. If an ideal world they would get bent back adjusted but that takes time and in a world where the least expensive product is often what people buy ........not enough people will pay for high quality

Imo000

I would bend it until it lines up. There will be a lot of force pulling the manifold apart. This

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Agree. Use leverage or some kind of spreader to get the right spacing, off the car. Otherwise you will stress all the connections, maybe break a stud or get a leak.
Dave

FREAKINHEAT

Leverage is key. Put the bolts in, on one side and line it up, and place nuts on. Then go to the other side, do the same. Use a pry bar to get it to line up. It will work with leverage. Tighten each side down with equal turns. I know it's a pain, just take your time and it will work its way in.

DKWalser

Just FYI: Most woodworking bar clamps can be reversed so they become spreaders. If you have any woodworking friends, you might be able to borrow a bar clamp that would work. Much lighter than a scissors-jack!

Or, Harbor Freight has bar clamps that would work for less than $10.

Ketchmi

Just an FYI, they are all assembled on a jig and checked after welding before they leave. I have had two cars side by side that they were too wide for one and too narrow for the other. I would not believe the varience between cars if I hadn't seen it myself. I had one customer that had the rear of his point off to the passenger side by 1.5", made him a fresh one and insured it was perfect and it also pointed off to the passenger side by 1.5". The car supposedly had no prior accident history but it did require a custom modification. I tried to find the happy medium for fitment and usually they don't require a lot of tweaking but sometimes there are problems.

Give me a call/email if you continue to have problems and I'll be glad to help you out.