Fixing Broken Plastic Tabs
#1
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Time and time again, I am running across broken plastic tabs that hold things in place. My latest discovery is my center console. The tab by the glove box screw is just gone. it is a substantial piece and I do need to fix it somehow.
I have tried to use epoxy putty in the past, but I can never get it to bind well to the old piece. I have tried to glue pieces of plastic on to the old piece, but it does not handle the stress.
If someone has some word of wisdom, I will be grateful
thanks -- rr
I have tried to use epoxy putty in the past, but I can never get it to bind well to the old piece. I have tried to glue pieces of plastic on to the old piece, but it does not handle the stress.
If someone has some word of wisdom, I will be grateful
thanks -- rr
#3
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Glue alone is not sufficient. I cut to size the plastic holders store use to hang tools from a Ace, HD, etc and use pop rivets to secure it. I am a hoarder of plastic bits. I even used them to repair the center console attachment points. I find the flexible nature of the plastic is more forgiving than the aluminum versions. YMMV
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The best results gluing plastic in our cars I have had have been with Gorilla Glue. Key the surfaces.
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I read somewhere once that there are three basic families of plastics (ABS, something and something else ;-), and each can be glued successfully with the correct adhesive, making the problem to correctly identify the type of plastic you're working with and then to source the corresponding product.
I think this is how those companies who re-do plastic bumper covers are able to fix rips and tears so well.
I think this is how those companies who re-do plastic bumper covers are able to fix rips and tears so well.
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I have seen Kevin’s handiwork in person (using the plastic pieces) and I must admit it’s impressive.
As an extreme MacGyver myself, I'm always impressed with creative work using 'another man’s trash'.
I have had very limited luck (at least with long term fixes) using epoxies (JBW), and other adhesives.
If you REALLY rough up the two surfaces, MAYBE it’ll hold, but usually not if there’s vibration or flexing.
I recently purchased a plastic welding kit (basically a large soldering iron type tool) and have loved it.
I repaired some large tears on the bottom of my son’s front fascia, and ripped mounts on lower spoilers.
The kit even comes with sheets of stainless mesh that you melt directly into both halves of the substrates.
Once it cools and solidifies, it makes the repair even stronger than the original piece.
If you have the original tab that broke off, it can be fused back on using this technique.
If not, you can recreate (rebuild) the tab using other pieces of plastic.
As an extreme MacGyver myself, I'm always impressed with creative work using 'another man’s trash'.
I have had very limited luck (at least with long term fixes) using epoxies (JBW), and other adhesives.
If you REALLY rough up the two surfaces, MAYBE it’ll hold, but usually not if there’s vibration or flexing.
I recently purchased a plastic welding kit (basically a large soldering iron type tool) and have loved it.
I repaired some large tears on the bottom of my son’s front fascia, and ripped mounts on lower spoilers.
The kit even comes with sheets of stainless mesh that you melt directly into both halves of the substrates.
Once it cools and solidifies, it makes the repair even stronger than the original piece.
If you have the original tab that broke off, it can be fused back on using this technique.
If not, you can recreate (rebuild) the tab using other pieces of plastic.
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