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Need some advice, how should I fix this...

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Old 05-11-2014, 03:07 PM
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kaelix
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Default Need some advice, how should I fix this...

In the move from Dallas to Austin in early March everything was going fine until the last 50 miles, started hearing a weird noise then all the dash lights went on. Inspecting it on the roadside I noticed I lost a couple of belts.

Had to call a flatbed to take the car to the new house. After all the craziness of moving settled down i was finally able to open things up yesterday and get a closer look.

Not sure how it happened but I lost the power steering belt, alternator belt, and the wiring for the fans

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Now i'm not sure how to approach a fix...

1.) The alternator pulley and fan are loose, should I replace the alternator or just tighten the pulley and fan? Can tightening these be done correctly while everything is still bolted to the car?
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2.) Could the force exerted have messed with my timing, or are there other things I should check out?

3.) The harness next to the 14 pin connector only has 2 brown/black wires and 1 red/blue wire. What was wrapped around the main pulley had 2 brown/black, 1 red/blue, 1 red/yellow. Could the red/yellow in the harness around the 14-pin connector be torn out further down the sleeve, i.e. if i open up the sleeve I should eventually find all 4?
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4.) What order do these connect back to the fans i.e. red/blue passenger fan, red/yellow driver? Does it matter which brown/black (I'm guessing this is ground?) goes to which side?

5.) The passenger side connector on the fan appears to be in order, however the driver side the plastic piece shattered. Can this be replaced or do I have to replace the entire fan? Are there other solutions?
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6.) the main pulley has some slight score marks, I assume from the wires, is this going to be a problem?
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:31 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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I have the entire harness, fans, etc. you need from a 87 928 including unmolested fan connectors.

You can use the fans as long as find a way to properly protect the connector. Heat shrink tubing comes to mind.
Old 05-11-2014, 03:33 PM
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Randy V
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Wow, that's quite a mess isn't it.

No suggestions other than the score marks on the pulley shouldn't be problematic.
Old 05-11-2014, 03:40 PM
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17prospective buyer
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It seems like you may have blown a bearing, from the one picture it looks like the alternator pulley is not aligned properly at all to the crank. How much play is there in the alternator pulley? Enough so that when you shake from side to side there is a tapping noise? Some play is normal in them as they wear.

It could be that some wires weren't tied up and sagged just enough to get caught, also walking the belts off the pulleys in the process. It would be helpful if you knew whether the belts severed, or just came off.
Old 05-11-2014, 03:49 PM
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kaelix
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Originally Posted by 17prospective buyer
It seems like you may have blown a bearing, from the one picture it looks like the alternator pulley is not aligned properly at all to the crank. How much play is there in the alternator pulley? Enough so that when you shake from side to side there is a tapping noise? Some play is normal in them as they wear.

It could be that some wires weren't tied up and sagged just enough to get caught, also walking the belts off the pulleys in the process. It would be helpful if you knew whether the belts severed, or just came off.
Do you mean a bearing in the alternator (I hope)? The alternator pulley is pretty loose hard to tell if there's a tapping noise due to something on the inside, or the fact that the alternator fan is loose too and hits the alternator when shaken.

It seems the PS belt was shredded and the alternator belt was severed, I have two long intact alternator belt pieces that appear to be cut
Old 05-11-2014, 03:50 PM
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Leon Speed
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[QUOTE=kaelix;11359869]

1.) The alternator pulley and fan are loose, should I replace the alternator or just tighten the pulley and fan? Can tightening these be done correctly while everything is still bolted to the car? If you can get a good grip on the pulley without damaging it (channel lock pliers on a rag wrapped around the pulley) you can tighten it. Just make sure there is a spring washer under the nut. Need to look up the torque spec but from memory it is 40 Nm.

2.) Could the force exerted have messed with my timing, or are there other things I should check out? No

3.) The harness next to the 14 pin connector only has 2 brown/black wires and 1 red/blue wire. What was wrapped around the main pulley had 2 brown/black, 1 red/blue, 1 red/yellow. Could the red/yellow in the harness around the 14-pin connector be torn out further down the sleeve, i.e. if i open up the sleeve I should eventually find all 4? Yes, the wiring is a brown/black to each fan, red/blue to one fan, red/yellow to the other.

4.) What order do these connect back to the fans i.e. red/blue passenger fan, red/yellow driver? Does it matter which brown/black (I'm guessing this is ground?) goes to which side? Do you have access to wiring diagrams? The brown/black doesn't matter.

5.) The passenger side connector on the fan appears to be in order, however the driver side the plastic piece shattered. Can this be replaced or do I have to replace the entire fan? Are there other solutions? I don´t know, but you might make something up with new connectors and shrink tubing. Just make sure the wiring runs in the channel of the fan housing to get it as far away from the belts as possible. The wiring is secured to the fan housing with metal clips. Use tie-wraps as needed.

6.) the main pulley has some slight score marks, I assume from the wires, is this going to be a problem?
No problem mon.
Old 05-11-2014, 03:51 PM
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double
Old 05-11-2014, 05:03 PM
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kaelix
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Do you have access to wiring diagrams? The brown/black doesn't matter.

I don't have access to the diagrams, can anyone provide me which wire goes were on the fans?
Old 05-11-2014, 05:21 PM
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Leon Speed
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Ok just checked, it says red/yellow to blower nr.1, red/blue to blower nr. 2. It is logical to assume blower 1 is drivers side and blower 2 is passenger side. Btw also check the fuses for each fan as they might be blown.
Old 05-11-2014, 05:27 PM
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Actually, it might not be logical. Cylinder nr. 1 is on the passenger side

Anyway, it doesn't really matter because both fans work exactly the same at the same time.
Old 05-11-2014, 06:40 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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Default Hope this helps

I think this is self-explanatory. I held the plugs in the same orientation for all the pictures.
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Old 06-21-2014, 11:11 PM
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kaelix
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I finally had some time to try and fix the fan wiring, I've got a couple more questions...

The only place that was open today where I could buy wire by the foot was HD, but i'm not sure if I should use this wire. Printed on the jacket (14 gauge seemed to be the closest size):
UL AWG 14 CSA T90 nylon or twn 75 ft1 nom-anc 90C

It also says it's gas and oil resistant, but I plan to use heat shrink tubing to make a small harness for the length I need to repair. My concern is the 90C limit, is it too low?

Where can I find the correct wire in the correct colors?

Also the female terminators I was able to find are different than the original ones, they're missing a metal tab which I guess is to prevent the plastic connector from sliding off.
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Where can i find the correct connectors or should it not matter since I also have new boots?
Old 06-22-2014, 03:37 AM
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OTR18WHEELER
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Yes, the tab is a lock for the insulating sheath, copper is better than cheap aluminum for conductivity. The question is, is this a permanent repair.
Old 06-22-2014, 04:23 AM
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When i lost my alternator belt, it was because my car was way too low (125-130mm, iirc), and the bottom of the alternator had touched the road at 75mph and levered the top mounting bolt right out of the block, mis-aligning the pulleys.

It wasn't obvious at first glance, not until I got to the point of fixing it, so I'm suggesting a very close inspection of all the mounts.

If I had it to do again, I'd use a TimeSert instead of a Helicoil.
Old 06-22-2014, 11:21 AM
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kaelix
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Originally Posted by OTR18WHEELER
Yes, the tab is a lock for the insulating sheath, copper is better than cheap aluminum for conductivity. The question is, is this a permanent repair.
Yeah i want this to be a permanent repair, any idea where I can get the correct copper one with the tab? And is 14 AWG the correct size or is there a different size?



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