Looking for some insight on weird brake issue
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,702
Likes: 415
From: China Grove, NC
Looking for some insight on weird brake issue
Posted this on Peli, with little success, finally got around to post here...what do you guys think?
Ok..this is weird...since I redid the brakes, and now, today, put in 1 of my axles...I decided to run her through the gears with the motor running...put it in gear, and the wheels would not turn...gave it gas, and still nothing.... ( remember, she is still on lift bars). The motor did not bog down , or anything.....I thought that perhaps the parking brake shoes might be hanging. Pulled up on the parking brake handle, the wheels start turning, lower it, and the wheels stop again...WTF?
Any ideas?
Looks like I have a parking brake issue, and a clutch issue? Perhaps need to do more bleeding? I'm confused!
Ok...a little more detail is in order.....
I do not think I have LSD....
BEFORE I touched anything, I could run through all gears, on lift bars, and watch the wheels spin. Clutch would engage, and I could push the brake pedal and make them stop, and the car would shut off, unless I gave more gas or pushed in the clutch.
I changed the clutch master and blue hose, and bled everything, and tested, and it operated as expected. I then removed the rear rotors, replaced the parking shoes and springs, and took out the passenger side axle. Put the axle back in last night, and decided to test, with the results I posted about .
Perhaps I did change up some dynamics, and did not see that only the passenger side was spinning. When I pull the parking brake up, drivers side spins. I'll have to angle a mirror, or get the wife to look at the pass side tonight.
Ok..this is weird...since I redid the brakes, and now, today, put in 1 of my axles...I decided to run her through the gears with the motor running...put it in gear, and the wheels would not turn...gave it gas, and still nothing.... ( remember, she is still on lift bars). The motor did not bog down , or anything.....I thought that perhaps the parking brake shoes might be hanging. Pulled up on the parking brake handle, the wheels start turning, lower it, and the wheels stop again...WTF?
Any ideas?
Looks like I have a parking brake issue, and a clutch issue? Perhaps need to do more bleeding? I'm confused!
Ok...a little more detail is in order.....
I do not think I have LSD....
BEFORE I touched anything, I could run through all gears, on lift bars, and watch the wheels spin. Clutch would engage, and I could push the brake pedal and make them stop, and the car would shut off, unless I gave more gas or pushed in the clutch.
I changed the clutch master and blue hose, and bled everything, and tested, and it operated as expected. I then removed the rear rotors, replaced the parking shoes and springs, and took out the passenger side axle. Put the axle back in last night, and decided to test, with the results I posted about .
Perhaps I did change up some dynamics, and did not see that only the passenger side was spinning. When I pull the parking brake up, drivers side spins. I'll have to angle a mirror, or get the wife to look at the pass side tonight.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,333
Likes: 4,289
From: Philly PA
what your reporting makes no sense unless your E brake handle is now connected to the clutch master cylinder.. I know not likely.
Anyway to adjust the E brake shoes tighten them till the rotor has resistance or wont turn.
Then back off the adjusters 3 ribs .
NOTE set the E brake a few times after adjusting and retest to verify that the shoes are free in the released position.
If fitting new shoes and using old rotors then the system may have to wear into the new condition..
After the shoes are adjusted as above then the handle should go 2 to 3 clicks to set the brakes.
usually adjustment of the handle cable isnt necessary as the shoes are the part that wears.
NOTE the E brake hold down springs must attach to the cast ribs on the backside of the hub carrier,
if this is not followed then the springs will fall into the E brakes and damage the components ,
this can be verified with a drop light and inspection mirror.
Once you have things adjusted road test the car by driving it.
Anyway to adjust the E brake shoes tighten them till the rotor has resistance or wont turn.
Then back off the adjusters 3 ribs .
NOTE set the E brake a few times after adjusting and retest to verify that the shoes are free in the released position.
If fitting new shoes and using old rotors then the system may have to wear into the new condition..
After the shoes are adjusted as above then the handle should go 2 to 3 clicks to set the brakes.
usually adjustment of the handle cable isnt necessary as the shoes are the part that wears.
NOTE the E brake hold down springs must attach to the cast ribs on the backside of the hub carrier,
if this is not followed then the springs will fall into the E brakes and damage the components ,
this can be verified with a drop light and inspection mirror.
Once you have things adjusted road test the car by driving it.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,702
Likes: 415
From: China Grove, NC
Thanks Stan, I know it makes no sense at all! Before I started , I could run through all gears on the lift bars, and watch the drivers side wheel spin, and I could apply the brakes and watch the wheel stop, parking brake did nothing. Now, with new parking brake shoes, the drivers side will not turn until I pull up on the parking brake handle. Even if I let the clutch out, in gear, I feel nothing....cannot drive car yet, still on lift bars
Here's what I did, in order
- installed short shift kit
- replaced rear shift coupling
- replaced clutch master and blue hose
- replaced right rear caliper
- repaired broken clutch slave line
- replaced all rubber brake lines
- refilled master and pumped out all fluid (several times)
- refilled master and bled system traditionally
- reverse bled brake / clutch system ( I did not remove the slave and push rod in, should I?)
- tested all gears and clutch action on lift bars, seemed ok, 3rd and 5th a little hard to engage
- removed right rear cv axle
- removed right rear rotor
- replaced right rear parking brake parts cleaned and replaced w new pads and new to me rotor
- same for left rear, but installed new springs
- reinstalled rebuilt right rear cv axle
- tried to test it all, and got where I am today.....completely confused
I have replaced tons of brakes, shoes, rotors, on Mb, VW, domestic, etc....never had this weirdness before.....
Here's what I did, in order
- installed short shift kit
- replaced rear shift coupling
- replaced clutch master and blue hose
- replaced right rear caliper
- repaired broken clutch slave line
- replaced all rubber brake lines
- refilled master and pumped out all fluid (several times)
- refilled master and bled system traditionally
- reverse bled brake / clutch system ( I did not remove the slave and push rod in, should I?)
- tested all gears and clutch action on lift bars, seemed ok, 3rd and 5th a little hard to engage
- removed right rear cv axle
- removed right rear rotor
- replaced right rear parking brake parts cleaned and replaced w new pads and new to me rotor
- same for left rear, but installed new springs
- reinstalled rebuilt right rear cv axle
- tried to test it all, and got where I am today.....completely confused
I have replaced tons of brakes, shoes, rotors, on Mb, VW, domestic, etc....never had this weirdness before.....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 757
Likes: 1
From: Los Altos, CA
I suspect that the RHS is fine and turning when you let the clutch out. The LHS probably has the pads binding enough to direct all the motion to the RHS, but the handbrake shoes not moving. When you apply the handbrake, the RHS stops, but there's enough torque to overcome the binding pads on the LHS (with the handbrake shoes not working on the LHS).
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Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,702
Likes: 415
From: China Grove, NC
Yup! Corrected.....my rusty cable was binding, causing the LHS to be stuck. Jiggled the cable and copious amounts of kroil, and we are back in business! Acting like normal now...
Had her up to 80 in 5th ( on liftbars..lol)..,has quite a bit of vibration....pretty sure the TT bearings are rust *****...
Had her up to 80 in 5th ( on liftbars..lol)..,has quite a bit of vibration....pretty sure the TT bearings are rust *****...
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 5,257
Likes: 446
From: Thousand Oaks California
Had her up to 80 in 5th ( on liftbars..lol)..,has quite a bit of vibration....pretty sure the TT bearings are rust *****...
But with your car being so neglected before you bought it, I would replace them for peace of mind. Good thing you fixed the brake issue, now you are 1 step closer to getting it back on the road.
Good luck with all of your future repairs.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,702
Likes: 415
From: China Grove, NC
Thanks! Yea, lots of rusty bits to deal with...things that are not normally rusted are on this one.....not good for them to sit under a tree in the Carolina's (or anywhere I suppose) for 19 years.
Little by little, I'll get her....not sure what the vibration could be....but to me the TT bearings would be suspect....I figured those needed changing going in....
So far, I'm about $2k in the hole, including purchase...., but I would have paid 4x that for therapy, so I'm ahead! (I'll just keep telling myself that!)
Little by little, I'll get her....not sure what the vibration could be....but to me the TT bearings would be suspect....I figured those needed changing going in....
So far, I'm about $2k in the hole, including purchase...., but I would have paid 4x that for therapy, so I'm ahead! (I'll just keep telling myself that!)