Remote start/keyless entry Brain Transplant
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,261
Likes: 53
From: Park Ridge, IL (near Chicago)
Hi guys,
I know many of you purists frown on "add-on alarm systems". Well I installed my first on the 928 about 7 years ago. It was very nice in Chicago winters, and had performed flawlessly until about a month ago. It kept going into sleep mode. I tried various reset methods but ultimately diagnosed brain failure. I disconnected it and drove around for a while, but I missed the convenience.
I looked around for a good self-install system and found the Audiovox Prestige APS-997C for about $114 on Amazon. I have now installed about 6 RS/KE systems on various cars. I decided to swap out the old brain for the new Prestige brain. There are about 16 wires to connect to do the job. I made a connection chart, and with the power off to the system, started cutting and soldering the new wires to the old. It took about 2 hours.
I found I had to add a couple of relays to make the door locks work, because the power output of the Prestige was to low. When that was done, I spent about another hour programming the new system, and I am now back in business. I mention this whole project, because I am sure that others will have older RS/KE systems, who can now renew them fairly easily.
Good luck,
Dave
I know many of you purists frown on "add-on alarm systems". Well I installed my first on the 928 about 7 years ago. It was very nice in Chicago winters, and had performed flawlessly until about a month ago. It kept going into sleep mode. I tried various reset methods but ultimately diagnosed brain failure. I disconnected it and drove around for a while, but I missed the convenience.
I looked around for a good self-install system and found the Audiovox Prestige APS-997C for about $114 on Amazon. I have now installed about 6 RS/KE systems on various cars. I decided to swap out the old brain for the new Prestige brain. There are about 16 wires to connect to do the job. I made a connection chart, and with the power off to the system, started cutting and soldering the new wires to the old. It took about 2 hours.
I found I had to add a couple of relays to make the door locks work, because the power output of the Prestige was to low. When that was done, I spent about another hour programming the new system, and I am now back in business. I mention this whole project, because I am sure that others will have older RS/KE systems, who can now renew them fairly easily.
Good luck,
Dave
Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; Mar 26, 2014 at 05:41 PM. Reason: Change KE to RS/KE
Note that for a pure door only KE system there are far fewer than 16 wires you need to connect to:
Power
Ground
Lock
Unlock
Confirmations [Light Flasher (2) or Horn (1)]
Optional Adds:
For Panic Button:
(Horn)
If you have an Alarm on a <91 model:
Arm
Disarm
To operate the Hatch:
Hatch Open
Hatch 'Ground'
For 'dome' light control: (not needed >91)
Ignition
Interior light
For remote start:
(Ignition)
Accessory
Starter
(Safety Interlock)
Alternator 61 or other engine run signal
For Alarm (e.g. replacing stock alarm):
Hood switch
Hatch Switch
Glove box switch (opt)
Radio trigger (+ or -)
(Ignition)
DI connection
(Alternator 61 or other engine run signal)
Alarm active indicator (LED etc)
Potentially a lot - but for doors only KE with horn & turn signal flash confirmation it is likely to be 9 connections - most of which already terminate at the stock alarm connector.
If you have a stock alarm and it works correctly I'd always just add a simple KE to that and keep the stock alarm as is. To me the stock alarms seem to be fairly reliable until someone messes with them (or something they are connected to).
Most aftermarket alarms installed by the PO (of course!) eventually give trouble - or often aren't even configured/installed correctly initially anyway...
Alan
Power
Ground
Lock
Unlock
Confirmations [Light Flasher (2) or Horn (1)]
Optional Adds:
For Panic Button:
(Horn)
If you have an Alarm on a <91 model:
Arm
Disarm
To operate the Hatch:
Hatch Open
Hatch 'Ground'
For 'dome' light control: (not needed >91)
Ignition
Interior light
For remote start:
(Ignition)
Accessory
Starter
(Safety Interlock)
Alternator 61 or other engine run signal
For Alarm (e.g. replacing stock alarm):
Hood switch
Hatch Switch
Glove box switch (opt)
Radio trigger (+ or -)
(Ignition)
DI connection
(Alternator 61 or other engine run signal)
Alarm active indicator (LED etc)
Potentially a lot - but for doors only KE with horn & turn signal flash confirmation it is likely to be 9 connections - most of which already terminate at the stock alarm connector.
If you have a stock alarm and it works correctly I'd always just add a simple KE to that and keep the stock alarm as is. To me the stock alarms seem to be fairly reliable until someone messes with them (or something they are connected to).
Most aftermarket alarms installed by the PO (of course!) eventually give trouble - or often aren't even configured/installed correctly initially anyway...
Alan
Last edited by Alan; Mar 26, 2014 at 03:22 PM.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,261
Likes: 53
From: Park Ridge, IL (near Chicago)
Thanks Alan. Let me clarify as my title indicates, my system includes remote start and trunk release. When those are added with a hood pin switch, it comes to about 16. I park outside so remote start is nice and since I have an automatic, it works out fine.
Thanks as always for your comments
Dave
Thanks as always for your comments
Dave



