Volvo Motor Mount Safety Hooks
03-27-2014, 10:25 AM
#16
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The Volvo mount comes with a thin metal strip that runs from the top to the bottom and serves the same purpose as the hooked washers on our cars.
It may be worth thinking about leaving the steel restraint in place and removing the washers. The thin steel will not transfer vibration like the large thick washers do
It may be worth thinking about leaving the steel restraint in place and removing the washers. The thin steel will not transfer vibration like the large thick washers do
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
03-27-2014, 03:51 PM
#17
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FWIW to make small clearance adjustments to the hooks,
all that is needed is a floor jack,
1/2 inch extension ,
and an impact 17mm deep socket.
Once you get the lower plates adjusted so they are straight inside the upper hook,
and the lower MM nut is tight .
If you see the mounts touching then take your floor jack and put the extension and socket together,
put the socket on the 17mm motor mount bolt closest to the hook.
jack up the jack till its touching the extension then carefully jack upp till you see the motor start lifting
NOTE you only need to jack about 5MM till the lower plate will start to deform,
release the jack and check your work.
NOTE only go in small increments.
Once you have about 3MM of clearance then your good to go.
NOTE as the mounts settle in the fingers will begin to increase in clearance
all that is needed is a floor jack,
1/2 inch extension ,
and an impact 17mm deep socket.
Once you get the lower plates adjusted so they are straight inside the upper hook,
and the lower MM nut is tight .
If you see the mounts touching then take your floor jack and put the extension and socket together,
put the socket on the 17mm motor mount bolt closest to the hook.
jack up the jack till its touching the extension then carefully jack upp till you see the motor start lifting
NOTE you only need to jack about 5MM till the lower plate will start to deform,
release the jack and check your work.
NOTE only go in small increments.
Once you have about 3MM of clearance then your good to go.
NOTE as the mounts settle in the fingers will begin to increase in clearance
It worked like a charm - thanks.
In my case I used a small bottle jack, instead of a floor jack, as it was easier to manipulate under the car.
In case anyone misses the obvious ("17mm motor mount bolt closest to the hook"), the 17mm bolt you use is the one adjacent to the hook on each side - forward in one case and aft in the other.
03-27-2014, 04:24 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Roger is sending me the original Volvo straps, I will report back my findings on installation. Even though the factory washer/hook is not that thick, I need every bit of clearance I can get between the fuel rail bolt and cross brace (not stock).
My plan is to remove the washer/hook and use the Volvo safety strap. Stay Tuned.
My plan is to remove the washer/hook and use the Volvo safety strap. Stay Tuned.
03-30-2014, 02:18 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Merlin's trick worked like a charm. I still have clearance issues with my strut brace, hopefully solved by sourcing a more shallow bolt for the fuel rail cover.
03-30-2014, 10:24 PM
#20
What bolts are you using for the fuel cover?
03-30-2014, 11:15 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
03-31-2014, 12:24 AM
#22
Team Owner
remove the washer and fit a 10 mm head bolt ,
make sure the bolt length is shorter and file the head down some that should get you a few MM
make sure the bolt length is shorter and file the head down some that should get you a few MM
03-31-2014, 12:38 AM
#23
Nordschleife Master
For reference - on my 89 with volvo mounts, I have 6mm vertical clearance between the top of that fuel rail bolt and the stock strut brace. I use the stock fuel rail bolt, and a ball-ended allen key to tighten it, there's *just* enough space to do it up without removing the brace, as the bolt sits a bit forward of where the center of the brace is.
03-31-2014, 09:31 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
For reference - on my 89 with volvo mounts, I have 6mm vertical clearance between the top of that fuel rail bolt and the stock strut brace. I use the stock fuel rail bolt, and a ball-ended allen key to tighten it, there's *just* enough space to do it up without removing the brace, as the bolt sits a bit forward of where the center of the brace is.
Last edited by Dave928S; 04-02-2014 at 08:11 AM.
03-31-2014, 11:22 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
First time this has happened and maybe the over torque did it. MM was replaced immediately with a new one (DHL 1 day delivery to Canada) to not impact the customer too much.
Kent it would be really good to get the bad MM back so as to return to the manufacturer for investigation.
Kent it would be really good to get the bad MM back so as to return to the manufacturer for investigation.
I will get that photo as per your request shortly. 
03-31-2014, 11:27 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
One of my nuts stripped at 50lbs. Grrrr.
I ended up using some Porsche nuts from my parts bin and they torqued down nicely. I think the nuts provided with the Volvo mounts are just cheap mild steal, not hardened.
I ended up using some red loctite since I removed the lock nut to get passed a little bit if thread damage on the stud.
I was amazed at how easily these nuts stripped.
I know the loctite is over kill but I will sleep better knowing the nuts will never move.
I ended up using some Porsche nuts from my parts bin and they torqued down nicely. I think the nuts provided with the Volvo mounts are just cheap mild steal, not hardened.
I ended up using some red loctite since I removed the lock nut to get passed a little bit if thread damage on the stud.
I was amazed at how easily these nuts stripped.
I know the loctite is over kill but I will sleep better knowing the nuts will never move.
03-31-2014, 04:55 PM
#27
Nordschleife Master
03-31-2014, 05:18 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ya that was a dumb dumb on my part. Anyways I was lucky that the threads on the stud did not get damaged much. It was the nuts that took it for the team.
04-01-2014, 03:49 PM
#30
Archive Gatekeeper
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Did everyone that's listing a cross brace clearance value make sure their cross brace is dead straight? It might be a useful proxy measurement for evaluating MM condition but only if the braces are straight....