Clutch master/slave Finally went out!!
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Clutch master/slave Finally went out!!
Now I can figure out which one is bad. Used to come and go, work fine then get weak and had to pump it to shift. Now its dead in the water, no pressure on the pedal whatsoever. brake fluid is full and no leaks on the floor. I know your gonna say replace both, how do I tell which one is the failure?
#2
Rennlist Member
Three easy steps to find out which part is bad:
Step 1 -- Buy both parts.
Step 2 -- Replace one of the parts. Did that fix the problem? If so, stop and send back unused part for refund. If not, go to step 3.
Step 3 -- Reinstall the original part and replace the other one. Did that fix the problem? If so, stop and check to see if you can return the installed but unused part for a refund. If not, it would appear both parts were bad.
Step 4 -- If, after replacing both parts its still not working, start replacing other parts at random. The fuel filter is always a good bet.
Step 1 -- Buy both parts.
Step 2 -- Replace one of the parts. Did that fix the problem? If so, stop and send back unused part for refund. If not, go to step 3.
Step 3 -- Reinstall the original part and replace the other one. Did that fix the problem? If so, stop and check to see if you can return the installed but unused part for a refund. If not, it would appear both parts were bad.
Step 4 -- If, after replacing both parts its still not working, start replacing other parts at random. The fuel filter is always a good bet.
#3
Rennlist Member
It should be pretty easy to determine if the slave is defective. Before removing any lines, you can loosen/remove the two bolts on the slave cylinder. If you see any red drips your diaphragm is shot.
If neither of these parts have been replaced, and one has failed, it stands to reason that the other is not far behind. Bleeding the system is such a PITA it makes sense to replace both the slave and the master at the same time. Why do only one and then repeat the whole process next year or next month.
If you don't already have one you should pick up a mighty vac or the HF equivalent while waiting for the parts to come in.
If neither of these parts have been replaced, and one has failed, it stands to reason that the other is not far behind. Bleeding the system is such a PITA it makes sense to replace both the slave and the master at the same time. Why do only one and then repeat the whole process next year or next month.
If you don't already have one you should pick up a mighty vac or the HF equivalent while waiting for the parts to come in.
#5
Team Owner
the funny thing about the clutch hydraulic system is that in most cases all of the parts are over 20 years old,
that said the best course of action is to renew the whole system at one time so everything will be fresh and ready to last another 20 years,
this practice will keep you off the back of the tow truck.
Or said another way how many times do you wanna screw around with the clutch,
how valuable is your time.
Replace the release arm bushing, the MC , and the flex hose and the slave cylinder, and blue hose Roger sells this stuff.
Make sure to shorten the MC piston and spring
that said the best course of action is to renew the whole system at one time so everything will be fresh and ready to last another 20 years,
this practice will keep you off the back of the tow truck.
Or said another way how many times do you wanna screw around with the clutch,
how valuable is your time.
Replace the release arm bushing, the MC , and the flex hose and the slave cylinder, and blue hose Roger sells this stuff.
Make sure to shorten the MC piston and spring
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#10
Three Wheelin'
#11
Mine won't hold pressure. Been driving it for a while now slipping into neutral at the lights. A real pain. Bought new stuff with the view of another 30 years of freedom. I am a little confused at how difficult people are saying it is. Even cutting holes to get to the MC. Really? Is it really that bad? Looking forward to the job....I think?